Deck building

Nice, but shipping costs to SC would be a bit steep for a deck.

 

I would imagine select is select. I just don't recall having ever seen it in a box store. I've just never looked for it there. Yes, you'll have fewer knots, less tear out, straighter grain and normally all 4 corners will be intact. Some people notice, and care about these things, and some don't.
As far as the growth rings, I've always heard that they should be up/out, so theres less tendency for the edges to curl up from water saturation. Meaning the outside of the tree, should be your surface. Can't say we've ever adhered to that. We just pick the best side, and put it up. Its pretty difficult to get a piece of 5/4x6 to cup, after its nailed/screwed down. Even more difficult with 5/4x4.

 

I am going to renovate my deck soon and the structure is good so I'm just going to re-skin it. But the major change I want to do is eliminate the railing on 2 sides and create a walk-off style deck. As of right now there is just one narrow spot to walk off the deck and I want to have the step wrap all the way around the 2 sides without a railing. My deck is low to the ground so there will only be one step. I've built steps using pre-cut stringers before, but I don't really know the proper way to build just one step between the deck and the dirt. Does there need to be a base under the step support or can it just rest on the dirt? Any advice appreciated.

 

for one step i could see it "floating" off the deck. that would spare you all the dealings with the landing...

basically underslung joists for that one step (?)

 

Concrete pad underneath the step?

 

Building code typically calls for a landing surface at the bottom of any stairs to prevent trip hazards.

 

Your location??

 

I'm in Alabama, I don't think they know what codes are around here. Unless all the crooked wood decks built on the front of the shitty campers people live in are actually built to code.

 

For me it is metro Atlanta. All of the municipalities around here require it from my experience. I am pretty sure it is part of IRC. Rise has to be consistent between the tread heights and the step to ground. Ground level has to be level and free from trip hazards.

 

For some reason I thought you were in MD.

 

Finally got around to be just about finished with my deck but not sure what the best (if there is a best way) is to cut off the overhang - I built it assuming I could just use a handsaw to cut off the overhang but figured I'd check here first and see what the experts had to say about it.

 

Nice work. In my preparation to build my own deck and I’m no expert but it seems like you could run a chalk line and use a circular saw. It would be less strenuous.

 

Sorry, hadn't had enough coffee - yeah, I'd be using a circular saw

 

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The wife and I have been looking into putting a deck on our house (second story) but need help deciding on a design. The rear slider door is over and just to the right of the bottom tier of a three tier landscape wall, which makes for an odd exit from the house onto a potential deck without blocking/leveraging the landscape wall as part of the deck design. Can anyone recommend a designer that can help come up with some deck ideas? We're focusing on a very large deck as most of the back yard is somewhat dysfunctional as we're set back in the woods on a hilly 2 acre lot. I know several folks do this type of work as part of their professional career ( @eggfooyoung ) and am hoping for some professional advice.

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If I’m saving money on building my own deck, does that make me a professional?

 

I don't know. Did you stay at at Holiday Inn Express last night?

 

@Cannoli

Brotha man, you would probably save in the long run by hiring a landscape architect, or landscape designer. The icing would be if you can find one with their own crew that handles everything in-house. They're pretty popular around here, and I would think they would be in your area as well.

If you're looking, ask friends, neighbors and coworkers for referrals. Don't be afraid to ask them what they didnt like about their experiences also.

 

A struggling professional can’t afford to stay at a holiday inn during these desperate times.

 

I tore mine down in Dec. finally stated to put it backup.

One thing you guys with higher decks need to consider is your posts.
The EPA changed the ground contact treatmeant in 04 and since that time I have seen 4x4s rot in as little as 8 years at the ground (pressure treated pine) My old deck had an expansion I did on it in 05 and I had a 2x6 handrail on a slope rot so bad in 10 years I could put my finger through it.

If you are paying primo for a deck, just realise ground contact is probaly the first major failure point.
A lot of jurisdictions will have you build a concrete pillar above the gound and you set your post on top.

Mine is just under 10 ft off the ground and I opted to go back with galvanized post to which I also filled with concrete. When the post rot away in 40 years, the conrete pillar is still there ...

I also opted for trex, 1 ft spacing 2x12 banding boards with 2x10 stringers 1 ft center.
As far as the heat from composit, that also has to due with color choice, Darker colors will heat up more...
16x24 in size with a double landing.

I shouldn't have to replace the deck in my lifetime. I'll post a picture when I'm done

 

I tore mine down and went concrete. Glad I did now with two kids running around. We never used the deck before, now it gets the most use out of the yard.