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Daytona 675 - common issues

Discussion in 'Tech' started by rllamarca, Nov 17, 2019.

  1. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    I'm headed out to look at a '12 Daytona 675 soon, and it has spent 90% of its life as a race bike. The motor has had a recent refresh, but are there any things specific to a D675 race bike that I could be concerned about/look for? I don't want to end up with an expensive paper weight mid way through next season.

    I've heard anecdotes about transmission problems, but haven't been able to find much about them or if they are really a recurring issue.

    I've had a few Street Triples in the past so I'm familiar with the platform already.
     
  2. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    • 2006-2010 Early models known for voltage regulator issues. Most of that was sorted by 2008, there was a recall. Make sure it's not applicable to your VIN.
    • 2006+ Don't over-rev them. Floating valves leading to valve/piston contact isn't HUGELY uncommon, especially if you're using over-rev all the time.
    • 2006-2012 "common" problem was oil/water heat exchanger failure causing mixed coolant/oil. A lot of people replace them with dedicated oil cooling circuitry only, eliminating possible cross contamination. https://www.ukracesupport.com/produ...treet-triple-r-2006-12-ukrs-billet-oil-cooler
    • 2006-2008* One race kit part that was available for these was an underdrive oil pump gear. This was made available because the stock oil pump drive gear would spin the pump too quickly for high RPM use causing oil frothing. I *THINK* this was remedied by the 2009 update.
    • 2006-2012 I've heard paranoia over cam chain tensioners and people wanting manual ones....not sure how I feel about that. Never personally seen a failure
    • 2006-2012? There was a TSB for oil dipsticks to move to a shorter dipstick, creating a higher oil level in the sump. I'm not exactly sure when they started coming with the shorter stick. Here's a picture and measurements of the two. Make sure yours is the shorter one, get the shorter one or cut yours down.
    • [​IMG]
    • The measurement differences are as follows and measured from the top sealing surface of the dip stick down to the level marks.

      ______________Overall length
      Old dip stick_____90mm
      New dip stick____77mm

      Oil level marks_____Full Mark______Low Mark
      Old dip stick_______59mm________78mm
      New dip stick______43mm________62mm

    That being said - I worked at a Triumph/Ducati dealer for 10 years. I've owned and tracked my 675 regularly for 9 of those 10 years. I've never had a single failure of any type at all....ever. Now obviously my bike doesn't have a million street miles on it, but it does have 9k. I'd say 5k+ of those are track and/or race miles. I've rebuilt the engine once because I decided to go back to school and couldn't afford to race and it gave me something to do in the garage. That was 5 years ago, not a single problem before or since. The only modifications I've done are Mosfet R/R, Kit harness (stock ECU), Kit camshafts (not springs or valves), some internal engine coatings for experimental fun, full exhaust system, BMC Air filter.

    The only catastrophic engine failure I've personally seen was due to a technician installing the kit camshafts and springs and didn't properly set the PTV clearance. Bent a couple valves. Those cams are now in my engine :). Otherwise all I've seen was R/R failures and things of the like. We didn't service many race bikes other than our own though, so take that with a grain of salt.

    Things I believe help longevity of my engine and things:
    Shift it at 12.5k, I never really go any higher
    Check and change oil regularly
    Clean air filter and oil regularly
    Flush cooling system regularly

    That's it. Easy peasy. If you have any other specific questions I'd be glad to share any knowledge I may have, even if it's relatively dated now.
     
    Dom17, rllamarca and JBall like this.
  3. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    This is massively helpful, thank you! Hopefully this sale works out today.
     
  4. mpusch

    mpusch Well-Known Member

    Sheesh, the post above pretty much covers the bases!

    I raced/tracked an '07 for a few years and had a blast with it. Great bike, though I did occasionally have issues, including the stator. Loved it so much I picked up a '15R last year.

    Good luck!
     
  5. Tristan

    Tristan Well-Known Member

    My 2012 675 had this happen, filled the belly pan with chocolate milk while on track. Was lucky enough to be right at pit out and got it shut down before any real damage. Got a setup similar to above and it ran fine after that. Between that and the first motor blowing up 250 miles after a rebuild I had enough and sold it.
     
  6. YamRZ350

    YamRZ350 Nicorette Dependent

    Oil cooler failed in my 07, oiled the rear tire with predictable results. I'd think seriously about the oil cooler liked above. Bike was fun to ride otherwise.
     
  7. JBall

    JBall REALLY senior member

    In my 07 the split gear on the balancer shaft failed, and tore up the associated gear on the crank, and the gear on the clutch. It was actually still running fine but about a pound of shavings fell out during an oil change. That was after about 10 seasons though (with two rebuilds) and probably at least 10K of track miles. I threw in an eBay engine and it ran fine for a year, and then lost the crank sensor, which took a bit to figure out.

    I did the oiler cooler mod, and ran a manual cam chain tensioner, and tried to watch the rev limits (didn't always succeed though!).
     
  8. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    Wow that's the first I've heard of that type of failure. I know the OP is asking specifically for a 12MY he's looking at, but the 13MY+ is really where you want to be. Bigger bore, shorter stroke, more hp lots of mechanical updates etc.
     
    JBall likes this.
  9. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    I agree, but those are out of my budget unfortunately. The '12 is at the top of it and I **think ** I found a decent deal.

    I do, however, have a '13 street triple R which has been real good to me for the last 18k miles on the street.
     
  10. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    Totally understand. The 13 Street Triple R is basically the same architecture as the early daytonas.
     
  11. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    I might be in the minority, but, they’re all great bikes. I’m not sure I’d buy one year over another.

    I bought my ‘06 that spring and it spent three years at the track, with zero issues. I immediately installed an APE MCCT and kept it off the limiter (< crucial). I dynoed it at Hordpower to verify the fueling and set my shift light for 200rpm past peak and never spun it past that. Oil changes every second day with Amsoil and OEM filter. A damper, suspension, and geometry work are essential.

    An SH847 R/R kit from Roadstercycle eliminates charging issues.

    Triumph tensioners are shit and the early bikes were known for it. Even my ‘15 800XCx occasionally rattles, so it’s on my list of things I need to get to.
     
  12. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    I had the tensioner issue with my '13 street triple, the cam chain sounded like a cat on crack. I also did the APE MCCT and its helped a bunch. What charging issues were you experiencing?
     
    ducnut likes this.
  13. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    My biggest issue with my Daytonas (had three of them) is that they all crashed a lot.
     
  14. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    I hear it helps to tighten the nut behind the bars.
     
  15. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    None, on my bike. But, R/R failure has been something to note.

    The Shindengen SH847 is of the latest series technology. Triumph actually have a lead harness that plugs into that R/R, but, is only bare wire leads and is not quite foolproof. The Roadstercycle kit includes everything and is a more efficient and stable setup. I have it on two of my bikes.
     
  16. G2G

    G2G I feel the need


    Whats your budget?
     
  17. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    Well it was about $5500, but I spent $5k of it yesterday on (what I think is) a well-equipped, titled 2012 675R. Yoyodyne slipper clutch, ktech shock, revalved and resprung OEM ohlins forks (valving was super stiff from the factory), full akra system, power commander 5, fast frank rear axle setup, woodcraft rearsets, some spare parts (including new chain a few sprockets, Triumph service manual, and oil/filters) 4800 miles in track trim, motor refreshed at around 4500 miles. I think i'm forgetting some stuff too.
     
    africanjon, JBall, nlzmo400r and 2 others like this.
  18. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    Hot damn, that sounds like a winner!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. rllamarca

    rllamarca Well-Known Member

    I'm glad I'm not the only one feeling like this was a good deal. Body is a little rough, but I can deal with that for next season while I get it dialed in. Will do some body work over the 2020/2021 winter.
     
  20. JBall

    JBall REALLY senior member

    Hate to give our new 675 owner a complex before he even rides his bike. I'm not saying mine wasn't a great bike, I rode the crap out of it for 10 plus years, and it was always better than I was. It was endurance raced a number of times through it's life with others were beating on, so it really was a reliable ride.

    I doubt if there are many race bikes that truly make it unscathed all the way to retirement, and never have one single issue. If it did, you weren't riding it hard enough.

    To rllamarca: Good luck with the new ride, sounds like a good bike.
     
    ducnut likes this.

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