alright so I got a great deal on a sub, it happens to be a great sub Solo Barik 10" L7. My problem is that I have been out of the car audio stuff for a long time and can't remember most of what I looked up back in the day. So I am planning on making my own box out of MDF inside volume to be 1cf. My real dilema is what amp should I get, I would really like to get a nice used amp or possibly a cheap new amp I can't quite remember how to match up the power, I know that the RMS of the sub is 600 Watts and the max is 1200 Watts and it has dual voice coils and 2ohm (I can't even remember how to hook up the dual voice coils to get to 2 ohm). Do I just shoot for that or should I get something with a little less power, maybe 1000 Watts max, 500 rms? I don't need any sort of competition amp or anything just something to push this sub. thanks for any help:up:
I know this doesn't really answer the question you are asking, but if you are building your own box, you should really check out this cool little program called Blaubox. It was made by blaupunk (sp?) years ago, but if you haven't checked it out before, it's worth messing with. I'm sure you can google it and find it somewhere, but if you can't and are interested, I think I have it saved somewhere.
The solo barics are finicky speakers.. they work awesome but need the right power and air space to be on the spot. The 1cf box you are talking about is the max size for that speaker in a sealed box and I would put at least the 600wt to it, 300 per voicecoil. Underpowering it can damage it because its not working within the specs of its design..
As for the question about the dual voice coil hook-up to get the 2ohms, (if they are both 4ohm coils) all you need to do is hook up each voice coil the positive and negative of the amp seperately. Also more power never hurts either, you won't have to turn the volume up as much and possably distort the sub which can damage them too.
I thought the sub distorted when it actually bottomed out? can you take short Jumper speaker wires and hook one positive to the opposite negative and then do the same for the other two terminals and then just hook up one of the two sets of terminals? so basically what you guys are saying is i need to run an amp with 600watts RMS and 1200Max or higher. anything lower and i may hurt the sub???
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42 there are your wiring options for the sub..... as for the amp, i would look at something like the JL mono 500.1 that amp is a beast. you could actually run one amp for each voice coil if you wanted....
in actuality, if you run a smaller amp, you wont hurt the sub, you will actually make the amp work harder thus potentially causing it to take a big dump on you and make your car smell like hot garbage for atleast a few days.....
Oof! Spark O Matic! Where did you dig that name out of? Haven't heard that in at least 20 years. That stuff was SHIT!! I think it was made by Emerson.
Alpine PDX 600.1 would be an excellent choice for that sub. Just wire the two voice coils in parallel to each other (should achieve 2ohm load if they are 4ohm coils) then positive & negative wires to the amp. It will POUND and be well within spec. :up: The JL 500.1 is another excellent amp for this application. There are many other amps out there that will work depending on your budget. The best way to NOT damage the amp or the sub is to set the gain control properly on the amp.
SoloBaricL7 Manual Download the manual above and see page 3 for sealed enclosure dimensions. More good info from the Kicker website: Enclosure Design Rookie
