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Can a 2x6 exterior door be put in 2x4 construction?

Discussion in 'General' started by zbunny, May 31, 2014.

  1. zbunny

    zbunny Well-Known Member

    Long story short...our house is mostly brick/block construction and we have Pella Designer Doors and Windows with built in blinds. We had 4 pipes break in the basement while we were out of town and we are 90 days into this mess and still haven't settled with insurance. At minimum basement door wall needs to be replaced, quote from Pella is $7K-$8K installed.

    I found some French door Pella doors on Craigslist that were replaced under warranty as the colors didn't match. They are 2x6, my current ones are 2x4. There is additional room on both sides of the current installation and the inside needs to be replaced and drywall has already been removed. Can this be done? I know it won't be cheap, but, I'd be willing to pay the contractor to do it right.


    I would also like to add additional French doors in my bedroom and off the basement stairs (block/brick) where there are currently windows. Can this be done? It is brick. I know it won't be cheap, but, can it be done?

    If it can be done- any recommendations for contractors in SE Michigan?

    Thanks in advance

    Michelle
     
  2. kevincg

    kevincg Well-Known Member

    You can install 2x6 units into a 2x4 wall.
    Here are the options/limitations.

    1: Can you "push" the units to the exterior the needed 2"? If there is a brick veneer you may be able to do this, making the exterior of the units more flush w/ the brick exterior. This may work with other exteriors, but likely will not work well with a wood or vinyl siding.

    2: If you install these in the same position as the old 2x4 nits, the inside of the doors will stick out into in\\to room by 2". This will look odd, but it may work depending on the rooms interior.

    3: If the doors you are buying as 2x6 walls are out-swing doors or sliding doors, you may be able to remove the interior 2" of jamb material that you do not need.
    This would possibly fix you issue entirely.
     
  3. jd96

    jd96 Well-Known Member

    Depending on the frame you might be better off rebuilding it?
     
  4. zbunny

    zbunny Well-Known Member

    The only opening that currently exists is in an exterior wall that needs to be completely rebuilt on the inside - so I'm not really worried about it sticking out 2 inches. The wall can simply be made to fit the door.

    In the bedroom where I would be adding, the current wall is angled and could easily be angled an additional 2 inches.

    The other entrance I would be making would be through brick/block and currently has dry wall on the inside - I think it is actually 1 brick, 1 block and than 2x4 for the drywall at the moment.

    I can get about $50K worth of doors / windows for less than $3K.

    I know that it would not increase the value of my home $50K, but, I would like the changes.

    Thank you again for all your input- I have no experience with any of this, but, want the windows/doors to continue to match.

    Michelle
     
  5. zbunny

    zbunny Well-Known Member

    Now I just have to find a competent window/door man and a competent contractor to cut openings in brick/block.

    Any and all input and suggestions is greatly appreciated.


    Michelle
     
  6. Rico888

    Rico888 Well-Known Member

    You need to measure your total dimension "thickness" of your existing wall.
    By that I mean the interior thickness of the material used to finish out the inside wall, ie: plaster or drywall, the thickness of your framing material, ie:2x4 or 2x6, and your finish on the exterior portion of the wall.
    Add those numbers up and you will have a idea as to the jamb width you can get away with.
    If you could post up some pictures it would help.
    Quite a few guys on here that can steer you in the right direction.....
     
  7. eggfooyoung

    eggfooyoung You no eat more!

    If memory serves, Pella just uses a 2" factory installed jamb extension for their 6-9/16" jambs. Those can simply be removed, if that's the case.

    Any opening can be manipulated to any size and/or design. 99% of the time budget is the limiting factor.

    You need to find a competent, working contractor who will bring in all necessary trades, will coordinate everything and who will ensure the job is completed properly. Do yourself a favor and go look at some of his past projects and talk to the clients. If he's leery of letting you do this, find one who isn't.
     
  8. eggfooyoung

    eggfooyoung You no eat more!

    What did you guys ever do about your hardwood? I was supposed to get you a list of samples, and didn't. My apologies.
     
  9. zbunny

    zbunny Well-Known Member

    We're on hold for the hardwood. Still leaning towards Hickory for long term durability - waiting and thinking I should do hardwood last so contractors don't damage them. This really has turned into a mess. Furnaces need to be replaced as they are completely rusted inside from sucking up well water. Water softener needs to be replaced. Hot Water Tank. Washer/Dryer, Lighting, etc....not much is salvageable. 1st Insurance Adjuster was fired.....ah the joys of home ownership.
     
  10. Razr

    Razr Well-Known Member

    ^^THIS^^ If it has jamb extensions that can be removed would definitely be the easiest route. If not, you could install the door in the normal fashion, and create a column and header treatment to the inside where the door is too thick. Make it look like you intended to do it this way.

    If the Pella door has wood extensions, they could be cut off easily, if they're vinyl coated clad, they would be much harder to cut and look good. Good luck.
     

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