Attack Triple Install Instructions

What I thought would be very straight forward - isn’t. I bought these Attack triples used for my 2008 r6 so maybe a part is missing.

There’s only room for one of the two stem nuts. I don’t get it. Looking at the stem itself there’s only enough threads for one stem nut. Obviously OEM has two plus a rubber washer and fingered washer for a reason. I tried just rolling with it but when I added the top Triple the nut in question moved.

I searched 4 hours for a PDF of install instructions or a walkthrough or any comments about this and found zip. I emailed Attack and another distributor but if someone can shed light on this I would be so grateful.


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Superbikey bits be superbikey.

Talk to Rich @ Attack.

And, if I might ask, what problem were you trying to solve on the R6 with Attack triples?

 

My oem triples were bent - and got a nice deal on these. I was going to run the zero insert to replicate stock at first anyway- this is my first time on r6 after racing SV650 for years.




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On my 17 GSXR 1000 you only use one of the stem nuts and there is a spacer that sits on top of the single stem nut.

 

Brilliant - I think that spacer is what’s missing from this equation. Thank you!


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IIRC there’s no spacer on the R6, just one nut and then the top clamp. Also, zero isn’t stock, it’s 30. I dont recall what stock is on the R6...

Edit: Just checked and stock is 30mm, so zeros will do just that.

 

I have the Attacks on my Triumph 675 as well and ran into the same 'issue'. I was told to only use 1 nut - no spacer or anything else. Steering bearing nut > triple clamp > top yolk nut.

 

So when torquing down the top clamp stem nut, I’m assuming you have to put the forks in (leaving the top fork clamp loose) to prevent the bearing nut from turning.


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I used a homemade tool to try to keep the bearing nut from spinning when installing the top nut. Even still, it was very difficult. I ended up leaving the bearing nut a little looser than factory spec allowing it to tighten a bit passively when tightening the top nut.

 

OT: What master cylinder is that?

 

It’s a Galespeed. They’re the bees knees.

 

I got it from web bike Japan. I swear this thing is just as good as the $2,000 Brembo GP ones.
https://japan.webike.net/products/21762328.html

 

Also just picked up Galespeed rear master cylinder with integrated reservoir.

 

How is the bearing nut spinning when installing the top nut? You are supposed to torque all other bolts first including fork and offset clamp bolts.
Check out the picture I posted of the instructions.

 

I must be recalling it incorrectly then. I could swear I remember having trouble with the bearing nut being only a single unit instead of two and having to call Attack to ease my mind. Maybe it was the torque setting - IIRC the stock two nut setup requires you to torque the bottom one then the top one and add a certain torque via angle measurement. I honestly can't recall now, it was a while back.

But you're correct in that the bearing nut shouldn't move once it's being clamped by the upper clamp and torque applied from the upper yolk nut.

 

While the bearing nut has a torque value I’d hardly call 10Nm being torqued. Unless you have a fork in the top and bottom triple, when torquing the top triple nut down it turns the top triple itself. The bearing nut just below is also turned which is very easy to over tighten.

Gcally you may have felt our frustration if that spacer wasn’t there to act as a washer, idk.

I contacted Attack performance and they sent me the same installation instructions as you posted. Josef told me that there is no spacer or second bearing nut.


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These are the same as Gcally posted



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If you read the instructions carefully you will see the top nut is the last thing you tighten. That means forks are slid in clamps and all clamp bolts torqued along with the offset insert clamp torqued. If those are all done there is no way for triple clamp or bearing nut to move when tightening the top nut.

 

But if you do it that way the top triple is effectively floating above the bearing nut and could back out slightly. I agree that you’re right - I’ll just follow the instructions.


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I snug up the top nut a hair past hand tight before I tighten everything else. I have never had issues doing it that way.