Anyone have luck adding "flex" additive to your paint?

Im getting ready to purchase the paint for my Sharkskinz. My last low side I had a problem with areas of my paint popping off where the body flexed. I will be using enamel again, not base clear.

Any of you guys have luck with flex additive of any sort? Either in crashes, or just to help with the spider cracks that can happen with race bodies.

Thanx

 

also, anyone know of a paint brand that sells neon colors in enamel?

 

do a search on paint or piss cans.

there was a really long thread a while back that talked a bunch about this very subject.
Good luck

 

used flex agent when I did my 1st paint job....tough as dog turds.
Next time didn't use it, and the stuff was not nearly as durable.

 

Just use latex acrylic house paint.

 

It has been my experience that when you rub bodywork on the ground the paint comes off. Flex add or no, you will need to repaint. Now then, different bodywork flexes differently. Some stuff shatters and it will make no difference what kind of paint you have on there. The lower may be less prone to chipping with the flex add but I'm not sure. Those rocks are tuff.

I use Base/Clear, but should just shoot acrylic as it is cheaper and faster. The flex additive makes the bike harder to sand as it rubberizes the paint. To me, flex additive is just a waste of money on a racebike.

Of course, this is just my opinion and I'm spending my money not yours.

I have decided that it is cheaper and less work...not to fall down. I may not ride as fast as the rest of the boys, but my bikes look pretty and I can remember the whole days experiences.

 

What's the fun in chewing up brain cells remembering 3-6 "safe" performances? I rode like that my last race weekend out and I couldn't do that again. I remember dicing with the top 3 riders on a previous race weekend much more fondly than safely running down the front straight at 85% power...

 

House of Kolor
http://www.autobodysupply.net/houseofcolor/houseof.htm

 

well no-shit the pavement will take the paint off. But im talking about the ears on the upper, and areas of the lower that flex when you constantly take them on and off. Also when I last went down, only a small 1" area touched down, but from the impact a good sized area of paint actually popped off from lack of flex.

 

I own a body shop and i flex everything never tryed in in enamel thoughbut i cant see why it wouldnt work.I base clear evrything it costs me less to base clear bikes.


Steve

 

I like to use Imron polyurithane, it is deigned for flexing and gives a finnish that always looks wet. It is however nasty to work with and you need a fresh air mask.
If you only have a regular mask you might try the PPG Durathane or Starthane paints they work well and are not as nasty to work with. Here are some links.
DUPONT
http://www.performancecoatings.dupo...hod:external:DPC-Login-HM-C:InterfaceFunction
PPG
http://www.ppg.com/ppgaf/etraining/index.htm
Wear a Mask no mater what you use.
David

 

To quote Ernest Hemingway.
"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."

I grew up on a beef farm and have done the other 2. Never have liked “school” sports or spectating.

 

I too think flex additive are a waste of money.... its a race bike... will get regular wear and tear.....

check out this paint... onmi paint... its cheap... perfect paint for a racebike

if you want to spurge, use a clear overcoat. I covers up previous sins. two part clearcoat is the toughest.

neon colors...house of color.... but remember neons WILL fade.

 

I said nothing about fast or slow. I said, "Not falling down". The "not falling down part" defines a riders skill, judgement and ability. It also keeps the bikes looking pretty, all the parts functioning and my wife/pit crew smilin.

 

Hi Steve,
I have turned to Base/Clear but I do not see where it is cheaper. To me...it is two paint jobs in one. If I shoot acrylic, 2 coats of color and I'm done, and I don't need 4 cans of stuff . Then again, I have an old gun and the more I paint one part, the more chances I have of a run.

Can you explain how/why it costs you less to use base/clear?

 

Ive just found enamel to be cheaper. Only been buying reducer, paint and hardener. Faster to paint also. Usually 3 coats and its good to go, vs both stages when I paint base/clear.

Yea I do know neon will fade, but its only my race bike and it will likely get repainted yearly. My issue is seems all the neon is base/clear. Even the house of colors neon says to clear over, or is that not needed?

I love the "neon blue" and neon "red". Those two colors together are awesome, with neon yellow number plates and a dash of white.

 

Its cheaper for me because i mix my own paint. I have a PPG system and can mix a from a 1/4 of a pint up to a gallon. Someone posted earlier about OMNI paint its a cheap base/clear system that is perfect for race bikes i think a pint of it is like $15 and there clear is cheap also. Older guns tend to use much more paint most of it ends up as overspray. U might want to check into a cheap HVLP gun if u are spraying alot. Plus base clear i can wetsand out runs if i get them. I have sprayed imron also thats some toxic paint but the finish is awesome


steve

 

Ive stated that i like enamel because its quick! Sure I can prob find base clear nearly as cheap, but it still takes 3 coats of base, then 3 coats of clear. Im into 3 coats of enamel, done..move on. True base clear may give a bit better finish, but my enamel came out very good last time and only took an hour to paint and cost me $30 for everything.

 

I try to use as few coats as possible, that way, it is more felxible.