2nd gen SV set up questions

I always heard that was what you should try and do. I remember when we started racing AMA and we ran a 15-41/42 on Tyler's R6 and just used part of the gearbox. I'm sure I wouldn't have tried that on our own, it came as a suggestion from a more experienced rider at that track. It also lengthened the wheelbase to help the handling.

 

I don't. Ive only tracked one once to help a friend set it up. Thats y im only typing generalizations and not specifics. I race an R6 in MA & WERA West.

the same ppl saying to gear for top-ing out 6th also prob shift at max torque. or just as bad, maybe they shift an R6 at redline

that reminds me, I need to go buy a 41 to try this year. I love that extra wheelbase too.

 

O ok cool you going to willow? I will come say what's up!!

 

nah. Im still prepping everything for Laguna in <3wks. w/ all the MA rounds I have planned, im not sure ill be back to WERA this year. but def come say hi if u head up to Laguna. u can't miss the RiderzLaw rig. I'm Robert.

 

Ok awesome !!

 

I may still have a 39, 40 and 41 if you want to borrow them? I'm leaving out of town early tomorrow morning and will be gone for a week.

 

nah, thnx for the offer. ive got a put an order in to Vortex anyways. plus its a wear item, can't rly borrow.

 

Gino,
I tried a 707 link a few years ago. I went up one spring rate. A 750 spring is absolutely nuts IMO. I would say a 575 would be where you want to be.

 

I raced the bike this weekend, it felt good. But yeah, according to everyone I've asked it's way too stiff. Front has 1.1 springs, and it's way too much spring for me. I am going to order some springs from Traxxion tomorrow.

I need to order a spring compressor too, it's only $30. Can I get away without using the bleed tool? How far down does that damping rod fall when you unscrew the fork cap?

 

One of your posts on a similar subject helped me get another 8-10 MPH out of my R6 at Daytona. I had been shifting at 14k or so, and that would put the engine down around 12,500, and it would be hard to accelerate in top gears. By revving it out a little higher, when I shifted it would fall back into the Horsepower curve in such a way that I could keep accelerating.

 

You want the bleed tool, the rod goes down a solid 6"-8" and is annoying to get - when you pump it, it also pushes fluid out. My bleed tool is homemade, it's a long bolt with a nut welded on the end, that has holes drilled through (the nut) so the oil can push out. For $20 it might be easier to buy the bleed tool, I use mine a couple times a year.

 

in a pinch I've used safety wire to keep the rod from falling into the fork tube, but the bleeder rod is much easier.

 

What are you guys using for sag numbers? Rider sag / free sag?

I changed the front springs from 1.1 to .975, hoping to get to test that setup this weekend. Need to figure out the rear. I ordered a 550 spring. Right now it's a 750, which sounds ridiculous but felt pretty good.....

 

Front 30-35mm
Rear 25-30mm

What is your shock length? May be too short if the heavier spring works, keeps your ride height in a higher range. I think.

 

I've spoken to a couple suspension guys, and they go for feel/ geometry and don't worry about sag. I think sag must be a more "old skool" approach?

In Vegas one year on a R6, Ty weighed about 125lbs and ran a 1.05 rear spring up from a 1.00. As I recall it helpd the bike transition better in a switchback onto the straight, and he went quicker.

 

What handling issue are you trying to solve with the linkage and the spring rate change?

 

The bike came with the linkage, I was just trying to get it sprung right for my weight.

I raced the bike last weekend, the front definitely had too much spring, zero preload and when I release the brake mid corner it rebounds pretty quickly. I added some rebound damping as a band aid but 1.1 is alot of spring for an SV.

The rear felt good, I had no rear issues, but everyone I speak to seems to think that 750 is a crazy amount of rear spring. I am hesitant to change it since the bike feels pretty good....

 

i bet the bike will feel really unbalanced if u only change the fork springs. the front might feel overloaded and the bike prob won't stop. so I won't be surprised if u want to change the shock spring as well.

however, knowing how much to change the shock spring is tough. 1.1->.975 is only 11%. 750->550 is 26%. I suspect thats too far for the shock spring. ull prob need a bit of guess-and-check to find something ideal for u and your riding.

I just did the opposite change, went to a stiffer shock spring but only from 90->95 N/mm. thats only 6%. at the same ride-height, the bike wouldn't brake for shit at race pace. I took out 5mm of shock length and everything is back to normal. if you change your shock spring by 26%, u are gonna notice!

 

Before you do anything with the rear, can you reach the mfg. of the link and get some guidance on ballpark settings? Barring that, I'd be inclined to leave it alone if it feels good and you can get reasonable sag numbers without removing all/most of the preload. Sounds like you're on the right track lowering the front rate, but unless you guess correctly you'll be chasing your tail for a while... find a suspension guy, smile, and hand him cash.

 

Here’s how I find a good shock setting. Set the spring at 10mm preload. Ride the bike. If it sucks, change the shock length. If it still sucks, change the spring. Repeat.