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2018 R1 electrical problem got me yankin my hair out

Discussion in 'Tech' started by tack514, Oct 10, 2021.

  1. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    Background

    2018 R1 purchased brand new from dealership. Stripped down and made into track bike. No motor work just basic bolt-ons. ECU flashed by SBU with all mods (pipe/filter/block-off/abs delete…etc) included. Rode for approx 300 miles…mostly track with a few road shakedown runs/break-in (sorta). All worked really well and was very happy with performance.


    Problems (may or may not be related)
    1. Bike has always drawn down the battery in a few days. The only thing I can link to this is the Yamaha lap timer unit (Yamaha CCU) or the Woodcraft key delete adapter. I have verified that both have been hooked up correctly. This is as far as I have went in trouble shooting. I installed a pig tail for the battery and leave it on a tender most of the time.
    2. This issue led me to order a Zero Gravity lithium battery with the back up start function. I always bring the bike in to the house over winter (at 200% dissatisfaction from the misses). Before pulling out of the downstairs I figured I would install new battery. I have installed most if not all parts on every bike I have owned along with all maint. I am not a complete idiot when it comes to mechaniking. But the following mistake will have you questioning that statement, as I sure did. I inadvertently hooked up the battery backward. I will blame it on being in a hurry and pretty bad lighting….but they are just stoopid excuses really. I did not realize what I had done as it blew the main fuse that is right next to the battery. I tried to turn the bike on and got nothing. At this time I did not know what I had done. Put the previous battery back in and still nothing. Long story even longer, I founf the blown 30 amp main fuse and replaced it….POP! This time I realized what I did. Idito. I switched the leads and installed yet another main fuse. I got the dash to light up. Took it to garage and proceeded to fire it up. It would turn over but would not fire. I went thru all of the smaller fuses and found that the EFI small fuse was blown. Replaced it and it fired up. Let it get up to temp and then it stalled. I purchased a cheap code reader as the 2018 R1 does not have this function on the dash. These are the (2) codes I got…..
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I reset the codes and tried again….same thing. I reset the codes and took it to yamaha dealer and explained the problem….and worse what I had done. After giggling at me for a while they took it. Called me a few days later and said there was nothing wrong they could find. They rode it and whatever else they do. I was pumped and had a track day planned.



    Got to the track and warming up the bike and it stalled out again. reset the codes and fired it back up and rode it around the pits. Seemed OK and kept running while I got geared up. Went out on track and everything was going good. Bike felt good. it was a cool morning so took it easy. I think this is relevant because it seems this issue comes about when up to temp…but not 100% sure. 3rd lap at Putnam and it shut down on me coming into the bus stop. No bueno as I figured I would get packed. Kinda hard to get ur hand up there and get to a safe spot to pull off. Good thing it is a slower corner so I was not going that fast. Hit the wet grass and fell over tho…lol. They thru the red flag on me so add that to the list of problems for the day. No damage to bike and got picked up quickly. After a few tries it fired up and I limped it back to the pits. it was running terrible on the back. Missing. It also does a weird thing before it finally dies. It goes into a limp mode or something where you are unable to give any throttle. it just idles…as if the throttle is not connected.



    So I am basically stuck. I do not want to take it back to the dealer for obvious reasons. But I would if I felt confident they would be able to truly fix it and trust them. I stay away from the dealer for this reason but I felt stuck. I looked at the parts diagram and see that there are (3) diff sensors for throttle. I have no idea what to do next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know I have 100% caused this issue and blame no one but myself. But in my years of riding bikes I have never been stuck like this....especially on a bike with 300 miles. I will gladly take my whippin for my mistake (X2) if I could just get this thing sorted out. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    I linked 2 google photo links for the pics...not sure why it is not posting. The 2 codes I received were "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low" and "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low"
     
    duc995 likes this.
  3. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

  4. dudutzu

    dudutzu Well-Known Member

    Don't know anything specific about this bike, but circuit low usually means "short circuit".
    The throttle uses 2 sensors just in case one doesn't work... it seems like both are falling off at the same time... mechanical? pinched wires? do they share power source or ground?
    Also if you're questioning a certain component and it varies/acts up when hot, then use a heat gun/hair drier to duplicate condition while testing/watching for voltage or resistance.
    Good luck!
     
    tack514 likes this.
  5. javyday

    javyday Well-Known Member

    The woodcraft key delete is draining the battery.
    What is your battery voltage?
     
  6. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    The battery has been topped up before starting. 13+ volts
     
  7. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    i will try uninstalling the key delete and see what happens on the battery issue. Still will unable to ride the bike until I get this figured out. Thanks all for the replies so far!!!!
     
  8. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    I pulled the tank again to have another look. Everything looks immaculate and I cannot see anything loose or charred. Baffling for sure.
     
  9. borislav

    borislav Well-Known Member

    Scot what I am getting out of your post is there are 3 throttle position sensors, I guess sensor A, B and C.
    Looks like you have problems with a and b but not c, check your wiring diagram and identify sensors with the problem and compare values such as resistance and voltage going in and out. Granted they may be different part numbers with different values but you have to start somewhere.I am not familiar with this model but you wiring diagram should tell you what voltage should be going in to the sensors as a reference from ecu, input from throttle itself if (FBW) and out of the sensor/s.
    Good luck
     
  10. dudutzu

    dudutzu Well-Known Member

    This is more unlikely and harder to test for/find but, I wonder if the limp home mode is causing the 2 fault codes and not the other way around, I've seen that before in cars. The ECU sees something weird that doesn't know how to handle and just shuts it off. So if the ECU sees something weird in the APS signals("does a weird thing before it finally dies") it might just shut power to APS/interrupts signals off to protect itself.
     
  11. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Boris and dudutzu. this is the direction I was looking for. I was at a dead end and honestly was frustrated...mostly because of my own mistake. This will get me onto next step. I was even open to going kit harness/ECU if that would solve the issue....which it more likely would not if it is a sensor issue. I have one of the sensors I could find in stock (A or B). I ruled out C as well. My very simple plan was to replace and hope for the best...lol. Thanks again gents and i will update so others can know as well. take care and stay safe out there.
     
  12. tack514

    tack514 Well-Known Member

    Finally figured out what the problem was. I had relocated my ECU from the side of the engine to under the seat. I purchased an extension to pull that off. It worked great until my super intelligent battery install procedure. I removed it and plugged ECU straight into harness. Fired right up and no limp mode when above 200 degrees. I saw on a few forums where other folks were having issues with the extension. So I evidently fried a $200 fuse. Anyway wanted to follow up in case anyone else ran into this issue. The wire harness I sourced from somewhere here in the US but I think is actually made by
    Bienvenu Motorsports.
     

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