Good morning all! Ive have looked high and low and can't seem to find the service manual for a 2015+ yamaha r1 Ohlins TTX shock. Some background. I bought a R1M shock from ebay, and i am converting it over to manual adjusters, and bought the race kit package to allow rear shock height adjustment. I bought both from Kyle racing. I asked him if he could send me a service manual so i know the torque specs, nitrogen PSI, and piston depth, but i have seem to be ghosted. Im asking if anyone has this info, that would be great. 1) Nitrogen PSI 2) Nut torque for piston shaft 3) Depth of piston in reservoir PS I did take measurements of the nitrogen PSI, and the piston depth, but i would like to confirm measurements.
Not sure if this is part of your problem? https://www.roadracingworld.com/news/r-i-p-former-race-tuner-dan-kyle/
Does your TTX have a stamping on it? For example, the TTX for my Kawasaki says “KA 6390.” You can use that to search online for an Ohlins manual for your shock; at least that’s what worked for me!
It probably does.. i have searched for the actual Ohlin's 15+ R1 shock service (ya416) but all i get is mounting instructions.. they really have this under lock and key, so you dont service your own stuff i found a service manual for an OHLINS TTX 44 Shock it says the 17mm nut is torqued to 30Nm, but im pretty sure that it was a 14mm nut on my Ohlin's shock. im at work, so can't verify. same manual says 40nm for the seal head Piston depth Pressure it just says "to spec card"
I have been told 6 bar for the nitrogen which is 87 psi. I have been doing a lot of research on this topic of late. To hand bleed or not? That is the question. The more well known vacuum machines are quite costly. I have found a couple of sites that sell homemade kits. Does anyone have any experience using these types of units? https://heliosure.com/product/motorcycle-shock-bleeder/ http://shockbleeder.com/products/shock_bleeder_kits
for what you're considering spending on just the bleeders you're showing here, why not send the shock to someone like @metricdevilmoto who has the tools to do it right and do it so you're shock is build to perform safely? doing this based on "I have been told 6 bar" second hand info is half-assed at best. So, which half of your ass do you want to hit he pavement first because you cut corners?
I dont have a 'machine' like those fancy ohlins one, but i just made one with a water filter cartridge, a couple of 8mm lines, check valves, and NPT brass fittings. Those are pretty expensive, and you can make what you see for about $60 (Canadian) dollars from things you can find at amazon, or your local hardware store. The most expensive parts they don't even sell in the kit. you need a vacuum pump that is about $100cdn. The rest is pretty cheap through amazon. For the nitrogen fill, I bought a tank from a local beer supply company, for another $150 with regulator. I made my own nitrogen fill for $30 including the needle (motion pro needle) I'm looking for a manual, so I'm reluctant to set to 6 bar, mostly because I had a higher reading in the shock when I emptied it. The shock bleed setup will for sure cost more then bringing your shock in for service. It is the second service is were you make your money back. Also if you have a multiple bikes.
okay great.. I think you helped me in the past for shim stack setup on this forum.. Much appreciated. You wouldn't happen to know the torque for the nut, and the piston depth? I messaged a local shop and this is what they sent me.... again no torque.
You have a TTX36, not a 44. There are two shaft sizes - if it's 8 mm torque is 22 Nm. If it is 10mm, torque is 35 Nm. All the other stuff directly above is correct. If you have removed the seal head, that requires a special tool, and torque is 40 nM with the torque wrench perpendicular to the tool axis.
Thank you so much! I have the tools at my disposal and to torque. I have begun the disassembly already. Now to install new seals ready to put this sucker back together. Side note.. Does anyone know of springs that fit fit Ohlin's shocks? I have an eibach spring from an elka shock, but the ID is just a bit to big.. it fits the collar plate, but I don't feel comfortable using it. Im pretty sure the answer will be, need to buy an Ohlin's spring, but just double checking.
When you are testing the shock to see if you performed the work correctly, you need to press down on the shock without the spring. You want to feel steady pressure as the shock goes down. Also listen for any sounds of air moving. The return needs to be smooth when the nitrogen is inside. This video is helpful for reference. Regarding the eibach spring, my racing partner has one in his ttx. It works fine.
Hai, they do. The spring i have is 6mm ID bigger then the Ohlins. Length is the same, and weight, is 10.0 This is the closest comparable spring i can get according to the Eibach website.