2015+ R1 Endurance Tank

I picked up a spare tank that I am planning on expanding over the winter to use in the endurance rounds next year. I've got a buddy who has a plasma cutter and TIG welder to help with the build. My question is about the thickness of the aluminum on a 2015+ R1 tank. Anyone dealt with this already and know the thickness?

 

If no one answers, could you pull the pump at the bottom and take a measurement with a micrometer?

 

The spare tank I have does not have a fuel pump installed. I can easily measure the thickness, but I do not have a micrometer to take the measurement. If nobody knows the answer directly, I will probably have to swing by Harbor Freight and pick one up.

 

I'd be calling Swenson and see what he has to say, no doubt he'll know.

 

Britt knows. Stanboli knows. My guess would be 1.5mm.

 

http://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/2015-yamaha-r1-endurance-tank.354817/
Or buy one that is done

 

.025-.035 , depending on where you measure it...Have fun..take your time welding it..leaks and splits will result in FIRE.
Why would anyone use a plasma cutter on an aluminum tank?? But what do I know?

 

Thank you for the info Britt. What would be your preferred way to cut the tank? I currently have an SE Composites tank shroud on the bike. I would like to basically create a tank that mimics that general shape. If I can get 1.3-1.5 more gallons, then I am golden. I don't want to go higher as I have seen in a couple tanks.

I actually spoke to Brandon about this tank. Cost is the determining factor mainly. I've already got a donor tank and I should come in 1/3 the cost of that tank. I also didn't want to deal with modifying anything under the tank which is needed.

 

3" zizz wheel on an Air Cutoff. ...AirSaw....AirNibbler..are what I use...along with Wiss Tin Snips...

Wait, you don't want to go up...or down...?? (Down and Back yields the quickest cleanest results)

 

I have an air cutoff tool that we could use. I have never used a plasma cutter, but figured it would allow a precise cut. Near the bottom of the tank, a cutoff wheel will definitely be necessary.

For the shape of the new tank, I want to go back and slightly out on the sides near the rear of the tank. There is an easy gallon to be had from turning the stock tank into the shape the SE Composites. Here are two pictures of my bike before I bought it with the stock tack and the SE Composites shroud installed.



If I fabricate a piece of aluminum in the shape of the shroud and add it to the back of the tank, I should be able to get the extra capacity I need. I wouldn't need to modify anything under the tank. BTW, the ECU has already been relocated to that location already. Per my conversation with Brandon he indicated that creating space under the tank would require additional baffles inside to keep the fuel near the pump. I am trying to minimize the costs and keep fabrication to a minimum.

 

Hahahah HahahahH come on man, there is no cheap way to do this. These tanks are very pricey and bike specific unless you just get a Beeter from Japan. Average cost to build a 24 liter tank properly is about 2500 and up plus your tank.

 

There’s about 3 liters in the SE shroud area, not even close to a gallon. Stock tank is about 18 liters, modified is 24.

 

Sorry there’s about 1.6 liters not 3

 

1.25-1.50 gallons is 288-345 cu in

A plasma cutter on Alum Yamaha Tank is not a good idea...trust me.
What kind of TIG machine are you going to use?

 

I got a used tank for $500. Additional sheet aluminum should be maybe $50. My labor is free. Use of my buddy's welder is free. That's just a little less than $2500.

What you have to understand is this endurance project is for the fun of it. We are not going to run 4 hours right with Army of Darkness or Cretu's Brudgestone team. We just want a little extra fuel so we don't have to make a fuel stop every 40 minutes. We don't have sponsors, so all expenses comes out of our pockets.

It doesn't have to be perfect. We just need a little more space.

 

Have fun....

 

Do yourself a favor and use at least .040+ 5052 Alum for the addition.. and 4043 1/16 wire...(1/16 tungsten also).

3003 will form easier and be tempting to use, until you weld it to the existing tank and experience a crack failure...and chase leaks for a couple hours..

I agree Have Fun.. that is what racing is all about Right??

OH and do Post Pictures here.. I like Pictures.

 

Britt, thank you so much for the information. I will definitely post up when I get things started.

 

That's funny. I emailed Attack asking what alloy to use if I were to modify a tank myself. They would only confirm that they were modified OEM tanks, and that they had, "no other information they can supply [me] with."

They know, but won't share with the unwashed masses.

 

Because Richard has a business that is tied to his information, whereas if I give you my "Opinion" and you fkup and burn your bike to the ground..that's tough luck...
Same as when I called Yosh and ask what wire they used to weld on Suzuki Frames...or what are they made of?? They have lilability issues that go along with handing out that sort of information...I understand that now...
So, I just took a peice to have analized and found out for myself what it was/is...all good.