I just thought I would reach out and get a second opinion. I have searched out on a few forums with no luck. I have just swapped out an oem CCT with a APE Pro (ST1300-08-PRO)on my 2009 gsxr600.this took a little messing around to get the new one in and coming up with a configuration of swivel extensions, universals and a 5mm Allen screw driver bit to be able to tighten the 2 bolts to the recommended torque. Everything went smooth other then having to pull the new CCT out because it was pissing oil due to the fact that the oem brass oil jet protrudes past the gasket mating surface on the head. And the gasket isn’t thick enough to bridge this gap. The original CCT has a recess where this jet would sit.Did a little research and found that you NEED to remove the brass oil jet (this just sits in the head) I removed with needle nose pliers as mentioned by others. now onto my question, I had what sounded like the typical CCT rattle, and noticed that the engine on my gsxr600 is quite a bit noisier then my Cbr600rr. valves on both bikes are adjusted accordingly both are 2009 model year and within 6000 miles of each other. The gsxr600 just sounds terrible. I disassembled and inspected the oem tensioner ... played with it quite a bit and don’t exactly know how it can fail. It has a very course screw / cork screw inside ( more aggressive then acme threads) and couple of springs. The tensioner needs to have pressure to overcome the spring then be manually turned. ( to be collapsed)As soon as you release pressure the spring pushes the inner and outer threads apart and the tensioner gets locked where ever it stops you can’t push the CCT back in because the threads/ cork screw are locked and need to be rotated clockwise with enough pressure to over come the spring again. So is installing this APE Manual CCT just a gimmick it appears that the OEM one is idiot proof AGAIN why install one with this specific design. I don’t know what model and years this oem style one is used on but the APE replacement covers quite a few models and a large year range sorry for the winded post just wanted to note all my findings for the next guy thanks
Manual CCT's are no gimmick. It's not super frequent but the OEM's do fail occasionally and can be catastrophic to your engine. There are a couple of ways to adjust these properly but I have found that after tightening the adjuster in by hand until it feels tight start a cold engine and if the rattle is really bad turn the engine off and tighten some more. Try again with the engine running and turn the adjuster out slightly until the chain makes a little more rattle. Then tighten the adjuster until the rattle becomes quiet-er. There will be a noticeable jump in the reduction of rattle once once you hit the sweet spot. You may need to back it off and tighten several times to know where that spot is but it's pretty straightforward and easy. Do Not Overtighten either as this can wear out chain guides and other things. Some engines will be noisier than others with chain rattle but a little is normal for some. There is also the measuring method of pulling off the case cover to access the cam chain but I've found this is no better and more time consuming than tuning by sound. If you don't feel comfortable adjusting by sound then use the APE instructions. The bike I own now is only for street riding and I figured I would just leave the OEM CCT in place and of course resulted in my only CCT failure which bent two valves, chewed up the chain and chain guide and resulted in a gooey mix of oil and chain guide material in my engine but I was lucky as it totally failed just as I was pulling up to my apartment. Parts for this bike were cheap and my labor is free so not too bad. Usually it's much worse. Cheap and wise insurance to get rid of the OEM CCT.
Thanks for the reply, I was able to adjust the tensioner exactly like you described. What I was wondering was with this particular design which looks like it covers quite a few different models of Suzuki’s how is it possible to fail/ back off..? I’ve read about the style of OEM tensioner that has a rack of teeth inside that can strip out.
Yup, usually the ratcheting mechanism fails. Not the only thing that can fail with them but that's usually it. Manual CCT's are crude, rude and don't fail unless installed wrong such as not tightening the locknut properly or as you found out that pesky little oil jet needed to be taken out. I did the same thing on my old GSXR.
Older OEM CCT on Gixxers were more of a reliability issue, early as in 90's and early 2000 era. More recent ones are fine. The spring inside the tensioner is what would "wear out" over time. Like any spring it can sack out over time and not provide the proper amount of tension that it originally did. I actually just replaced the spring inside the OEM CCT on my 1000. It wasn't a huge difference, but the cam chain rattling noise became noticeably reduced. I've tried installing an APE manual CCT but I could never come to grips with trying to adjust it just right. These days I've read about more stories online of people screwing up things mis-adjusting manual CCT tensioners than modern GSXR OEM CCT going bad. EDIT: I just glanced on Ron Ayers website and the fiche for the 2009 model looks different than the 2007, apparently the tensioner designed has changed as I don't see any option there for the replacement spring... https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3c0d9f870021958f2729b/cam-chain On both my 2005 1000 and my 2007 600 I replaced the spring in it as you can see here #7 https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c6afef8700220a83111f9/cam-chain
True enough. This is why I like to adjust by sound. That's the proof that it's adjusted properly. With my CCT failure Yamaha informed me that there was a re-design but not a recall on it. Only a maintenance bulletin for when the bike visits the dealer service which mine never does. Gee, thanks for giving me the heads up Yamaha.
Thanks for the reply, I agree with springs becoming weaker over time and or breaking which could cause the newer GSXR tensioners to possibly not adjust but don’t see how it could possibly back off. there is a little play in these threads in/out maybe 1/8 inch. (This is due to design not necessarily wear and tear) I don’t think this would cause a cam chain to jump teeth, or cause a catastrophic failure. I had read that with older oem tensioners there was a possibility to back off, going from a wide open condition to closed throttle with the sudden lack of oil pressure and pressure on the back side of the chain on deceleration/ load. What I’ve come to find out is I don’t see this possible with the newer style. Unless your going to rotate the tensioner plunger clockwise while it has pressure applied to it. Again not sure where I see the benefit of a manual tensioner with a newer GSXR
Agreed, I think that is because earlier iterations of the tensions used oil pressure to create the back pressure on the tensioner, so if there was a reduction/failure of oil flow to create tensions, those teeth on the arm are the only thing to keep the tensioner from failing altogether. In the later design that incorporates the spring, even if the teeth on the arm were to wear, you still have a mechanical spring pressing back against the arm so it can't fail like that. Not me btw
Spring tension alone will not hold the chain tension if the ratcheting fails. That's exactly how mine failed. It only had the spring holding the tension.
On the 09 GSXR style tensioner it’s way more solid then the cheapo tensioner teeth that is in the video above . Like I said before I think this design will not fail in a manor that will cause any damage to the engine. Even if a spring broke ( just would not readjust) If this is the case why would you mess with it in a newer GSXR.looks like 2008-2019 600/750 all share the same tensioner. This is why I question if this is a gimmick on this particular make and model bike. I have no doubt that the manual CCT has it’s purpose.
