2007 r6 cam degree help????

Im wondering if anyone has any experience with the new style r6 motors and degreeing the cams? I recently installed a .45mm head gasket and purchased some slotted cam sprockets and was curious what numbers i should degree my cams to? I can find tons of stuff about the older r6s but am having a hard time getting info about my motor. Anything at all will help!
Thanks

 

tough to get builders to give that kind of info out for free.. since they spent lots of time and resources through trial/error getting numbers that work. know what I mean??

 

From the kit manual for that bike:

1 Basic Specifications


Spec
Displacement 599cc
Maximum engine speed
(limiter controlled speed)
16000rpm
Bore/Stroke 67.0 42.5mm
Valve timing (event angle)
INT.
EXT.
= 110°
= 110°
Squish height 0.60mm
Clearance between the valve and the piston
INT.
EXT.
= 1.10 12° ATDC
= 1.62 12° BTDC
Clearance of valves (tappet)
INT.
EXT.
= 0.20 targeted (0.18 ~ 0.22)
= 0.25 targeted (0.23 ~ 0.27)

No big secret, relatively public info. It's really important that you check piston to valve clearance at 12 degrees.

 

i assume the kit manual #'s are not the stock numbers? i have seen other cam timing numbers thrown around but don't know what worked best.

 

Not stock. Kit. LOL.

 

110/110, i know my 07 bikes from another reputable builder didn't have those numbers. Lower on the intake and higher on the exst. but the cases and head were milled along with a thinner gasket. clearances were 35" and 65".
What would be the advantages of going a bit lower or higher than 110/110?

 

Those numbers are pretty top end biased.
Smaller intake numbers will increase lower rpm torque.
I want the smallest intake lobe center I can run and I move the exhaust around to maintain/establish the overlap I want.
Forgetting for a moment that the valves will get eaten by the (stock) piston's valve pockets, 101/107 are good numbers...

 

with .45mm hg, tuner he wont be able to get the intake lc that far advanced. My guess is he'd only get to 106 at closest ptv safely..as well as the exhaust, 107lc with that h/g and if he has taken anything off cases/head wont be able to put it more than say 109lc.

nutsack why not start at the stock cam lobe centers and adjust for ptv if you dont have exact numbers or cant find someone to give you (i agree with Melk..not too many of us give out) ..put them at stock, check your ptv and then adjust till you get clearance you feel is safe. everyone is different on "safe" ptv but you'll be more than safe at >.95mm in and >1.5mm ex on that bike. good luck.

 

No doubt, the idea was to let him know the direction he needs to go, not how far..
I remember a story told about Pops Yoshimura when he first started tuning in the states.
The story goes that he never used a degree wheel, he just set the centers a hair on the safe side of crashing the pistons into the valves and that was that.
They tended to be peaky, but made great power..

 

That's not where I run them. That was info from the manual - somewhere to safely start. With that engine you run the LC as low as you can because there's no movable stacks and the power at 10K rpm is a bit sucky.

 

Back then (old two valve motors) valve to valve clearance was as big a issue as Piston to valve.

 

I really appreciate all the info! Im looking to keep the characteristic of my bike with the sweet top end power but just want a little more mid range. I am a novice rider and do hit the rev limiter from time to time so i want to make this as reliable as i can. Is the kit manual numbers going to make my mid range worse? Is like 108IN and 108EX a better starting point? thanks angin for the help and all the knowledge!

 

You need to double and triple check piston to valve clearance no matter what numbers you use.

 

In general, you want smaller intake lobe center numbers than 110, right up to the point where it gets risky, valve to piston wise..as was already said, you GOTS to measure VTP or the pricey bits will go rolling down the track...
To keep as much top end as possible while scrabbling for midrange, you make sure to maintain overlap by maintaining the same (or close to it) as the previous setting.
As to "stock" lobe center numbers, you have to measure your engine because they don't all leave the factory with them set at book spec..
Playing with lobe center numbers is not that big a deal as long as you keep your head and don't go nuts with wacked out numbers.
What is a BIG deal is gearing up to measure bucket travel with a precise dial indicator and perhaps fabbed up indicator mount "platforms" AND special probe tips (I made my own).
Figuring out how to securely hang a large diameter degree wheel off the end of the crank so that it won't come loose or wobble around is another issue..

 

+1 every valve, every time

 

so how did you guys find these optimal settings? is it just years of experience or have you gone through your fair share of engines?

 

Back in the 70's I started as a bored (with cars) tech and I read everything I could find..books on Indy engines, F1 engines, Nascar engines, WWII fighter plane recip engines (more tech came from there than you might think) AND I started grinding my own slots in the cam gears of my street bikes.
General knowledge at the time was that you could advance both cams 1mm and get power..so I did that and it worked.
I did a bunch of bikes that way untill a few years later I invested in a jumbo degree wheel and fabbed some adaptors and spacers to mount the wheel to different bikes and at the same time made different plates to mount on the cam caps for the mag base of the indicator and finally made custom indicator probe tips for different engines..
As new models came out, it got harder and harder to get a true measurement of bucket travel and still stay parrellel to the buckets..
I also got help from other techs and just kept reading everything I could find that even slightly mentioned cam timing and the why and wherefore thereof..

 

like the others on here like humblepie... lots and lots of dyno time. again set them to STOCK specs and adjust them from there for better/safer PTV. Im sure at stock settings your ptv will be too tight (for me at least) so adjust. you;ll end up on the intake 107-109 and exh 108-111 im sure. good luck...like others said measure measure and remeasure yourself after wards.

 

Good thread. I'm just building a replacement motor for my 07 R6 and doing the same .45 head gasket and cam sprockets. Won't have time to do it until next week.

Just for reference, I measured the lobe centers of the stock motor at 109 in, 106.5 ex.

 

well if thats what you got, then do your head gasket, and once cams back in stock location check the PTV...then just adjust the cams to the spec you want. You'll probably be ok with 109 on intake for ptv but that ex lc of 106.5 im betting will be too tight and you'll have to advance the ex cam 3-5degs. If you keep cams as close to stock and have the correct ptv you'll be fine. Most over think cam timing. Good luck.