2001 SV650 cutting out in high rpm?

This sounds like exactly like what my endurance team went through at VIR. I'm still unsure if it was the Mosfet R/R I had just put on it, or if it was the coil wires. I fixed both at once and it ran great for the next 2hrs. I still think I may have just gotten a bad R/R. Either way, I would check those two things. We ended up not getting any dry practice and worked on the bike for an hr and 15min of the race.

 

Trimmed up plug wires and put them back into the boots and stole a rectifier off a spare parts sv i have and bike still cuts out around 7,500rpm. I have never rode the parts bike ive got so not for sure it has a good rectifier but i doubt that its the cause? Gonna try to steal the coils and black box next is all i can think of at this point?

 

Did you look at the foam on the bottom of the tank??
Had a customer bike that I spent quite a bit of time chasing down the issue before I found the insulation pulling loose on the tank choking it out at High load.

 

Ok il check that out too thanks!

 

+1 for the foam...

When/how did this problem start? New to you bike with the symptoms already? Bike you've been riding that developed this problem?

May be starving for fuel too. Pump failing (cheesy vacuum pump on right frame rail) or floats set to low?

 

Problem started a few months ago. I kept riding the bike as it runs fine in low to mid rpm. I swapped out the black box today and that didnt fix it either. Im going to check the tank foam and then the coils next.

 

- Check the spark plug caps. They wear out and don't snap tight. Apply silicone to the spark plug cap rubber and valve cover so they don't pop out
- Cut a little bit of the spark plug wire off and screw the cap back on tight. Wires frey
- Squeeze the coil wire connectors with needle nose pliers and plug them back on the coils so they fit tight. Apply silicone to the connectors so they don't pop or wiggle off
- Check your charging system. Make sure your battery is good. How far does the battery dive down when you hit the starter button? Shouldn't dive down to more than 8 or 10 volts. If the battery is good keep it connected. Unplug the connector coming from the stator with the 3 yellow wires going to regulator rectifier. When the bike is 3500-4500 RPM you should see 50-70 volts AC on each of the 3 yellow wire pairs. Reconnect the plug to the R/R. Disconnect the output / 12 volts of the R/R and make sure that you are reading 13.5 volts +/- 1 volt. The voltage should rise when you give it gas. Make sure it doesn't look like the yellow wires around the connector aren't getting hot / discolored.
- Make sure the vacuum line coming from the intake manifold to the fuel pump is tight and in good shape. Safety wire or hose clamp accordingly.
- Make sure there's no kinked or bad condition fuel lines when the tank is mounted and secure. Shit get's pinched under there sometimes.
- I have rarely ever seen a coil go bad. You can ohm out the primary and secondary per the Suzuki manual

I actually had the same problem earlier this year where mine was breaking up randomly up top. Ended up being a bad battery but I knew that anyway because it struggled to start when I hit the button. The battery must have been folding during high RPM / high load.

I've seen junk / bad / new batteries out of the box. Batteries plus can perform a load test on any battery per the amp hour / cold cranking amp / capacitance specifications

 

It was the stupid foam under the gas tank. Although visually it did not appear loose and on the edges it was secure if i actually pinced it with my fingers i could just barely pull it away from the tank in the middle. So took a knife and cut a small circle the size of the little air box opening in the top of the air box cover and the bike runs great! Cannot thank u guys enough for your info on resolving this problem!!! I never wouldve thought of that foam being the issue in a million years. Well done gentlemen!