1992 TZ250D Zero Mile 4DP1

OK guys here is your chance to own a real fire breathing two stroke GP bike. Trade me for something cool or for a pile of cash this thing is yours.

Just a little back story, this is my 3rd TZ, and I've been racing 250GPs exclusively for the past 10 years. Ran upfront with USGPRU/CCS/CVMA and earned 1 USGPRU 250GP national win (not on this bike). Decent rider and know my way around these bikes.

So up for your consideration is this essentially new ZERO mile 1992 TZ250. This machine is quite special and I will do my best to detail it below:

1992 TZ250D. Polished Frame. All new bearings (swing arm, steering head, wheel)
Suspension rebuilt will new oil, bushings, seals, set up for 185 lb rider.
.8 kg/mm fork springs 8.5 kg/mm shock spring
Rebuilt Shindy Daytona steering damper
ZERO mile Rick Schell stage 2 crank shaft (crank is a work of art, lightened and polished fly wheels and rods)
ZERO mile top end (pistons, rings, bearings)
Roland Cushway 8.0cc heads
96' cylinders and pipes with 2.5mm pipe spacers per Roland Cushway
new plugs and caps
new reeds
new gaskets through out
dual EGTs
Daytona digital water temp gage
new clutch and pressure plate
every bearing in cases replaced with new (trans, case, waterpump, balance shaft)
new EBC HH brake pads
GP tech thumb brake
Custom rear sets and foot pegs
Vortex Clip-ons
new DID xring chain
EBC Prolite rotors
Professional paint
airtech aerotail w/anti draft sheild

Comes with a set of Bridgestone take-off slicks that have 1 race weekend on them. (9/24/16)

Gearing, jetting, original Yamaha paddock stand AND original manual included

Bike presents as new. I built it as my back up bike for this season, but I have no real need for another TZ250. Full set up notes included and a copy of my jetting spread sheet. The bike has been leak tested, started, heat cycled and ridden around the block so maybe not zero mile, but you get the point.

Trade me for something cool or $10k takes it. Not necessarily another race bike, other 2Ts, ADV bikes, cool stuff.

 

MFer!!!! this is a beauty!! Wish I knew more about 2T's I would sell my R6 and buy this

GLWS

 

I can teach you what you need to know.

 

Where is the bike at ?

 

Phoenix, AZ

 

Interested but know nothing about 2T.

 

They're definitely different from 4T. They are more finicky and want more precise tuning, but they are incredibly easy to work on. I could replace a piston faster than the CBR driver in the next pit could shim his needles ...

You'll want to purchase a set of weather gauges - baro, temp, and RH. Not too expensive, and the math to adjust your jets is pretty easy.

The chassis adjustments are the sort of thing proddy racers could only dream of, back when these were being built. Again, they take a little dialling-in, but the handling precision once sorted is incomparable to anything cheaper than a full-on MA factory ride.

 

What's the service interval and how hard is it to get parts?

 

300 mi top end. 1000 mi crank. Clutch and Reeds on condition. People get intimidated by the whole 2t gp bike thing being hard or 'finicky' . It's not if you spend the time to actually learn what youre doing and what changes affect what. It's not that complicated

 

I have a jetting base line. All you need is a weather station, I reccomend a Davis Perception II. Just enter press, temp, and hum in the spread sheet and boom out pops appropriate jetting. No guessing. Read plugs and Pistons to fine tune. Adjust needle clip and nozzle to suit how you pick up throttle. Easy. Chassis is infinitely adjustable. Set bike at geometry settings as per manual. Correct springs and correct sag and make one change at a time and you'll be dialed in. The bike requires a lot of 'touch time' . If you want to just turn the key and ride all day and change oil every now and then it's not for you.

But really, once set up, I jet it for the cooler morning temps for practice, reject once for the afternoon races when the temp is high and that's it. My bikes are set up for Sunoco 110 leaded or VP c12. Super wide tuning window, almost zero risk of det unless you do some thing stupid like too much ign advance or and air leak.

 

I have a jetting base line. All you need is a weather station, I reccomend a Davis Perception II. Just enter press, temp, and hum in the spread sheet and boom out pops appropriate jetting. No guessing. Read plugs and Pistons to fine tune. Adjust needle clip and nozzle to suit how you pick up throttle. Easy. Chassis is infinitely adjustable. Set bike at geometry settings as per manual. Correct springs and correct sag and make one change at a time and you'll be dialed in. The bike requires a lot of 'touch time' . If you want to just turn the key and ride all day and change oil every now and then it's not for you.

But really, once set up, I jet it for the cooler morning temps for practice, reject once for the afternoon races when the temp is high and that's it. My bikes are set up for Sunoco 110 leaded or VP c12. Super wide tuning window, almost zero risk of det unless you do some thing stupid like too much ign advance or and air leak.

 

How about spare parts?

 

Clutch plates, pistons, crank rebuild parts still readily available. Clutch baskets available as billet rebuild kits. Lots of cyls & cases out there from crashed examples. Lots of frames, forks, swingers & wheels from blown engines and shifter kart racers; not cheap, but available.

Crash spares, consumables readily available. Fibre glass from lots of sources.

 

For those that are serious, contact me directly at [email protected] or call/text 480-436-0192

 

You can tell the seller is honest with that statement. I'm speaking of a 125, which is basically the same but with 1 cylinder. I taught my son how to do the main things needed, when he was 14. He rebuilt the last 5-6 top ends. It is easy, but just takes some time.

Also, IMHO, if you aren't worried about battling 10 other kids at a USGPRU round, and winning, you can usually run the same jetting all day. Since the owner has the notes, you should be pretty good.

We ran Honda 125's and I could probably tell you a safe jet to run on any semi stock 125, at least out here in West Coast weather condtions. Jetting it isn't really hard and takes very little time.

 

Be very careful when offering (or taking) jetting advice for pre-'98 TZ250s based on RS125 data. The front and rear cyls are typically staggered 2-3 jet sizes. Also, the earlier TZs used Mikuni carbs with very different MJ numbering, as well as different tuning stages for the slides, PJs, etc.

 

That's not what i said. I may have done a bad communication job. What I was trying to say is i could jet a guys RS125 on the west coast for most conditions pretty easily, especially if he isnt trying to run on the ragged edge and beat a bunch of kids at a USGPRU event.

I imagine with the owners notes and phone calls to the old owner, or you, you could do the same on a TZ. Especially if you are willing to run a bit fat, while learning, it is relatively easy.

 

Ok - that makes more sense!

And, yes - with the OP's notes for jetting vs baro & temp, it should be quite easy for the new owner to get pretty close at his first outing.

 

More pictures

 

Send me a text if you can maybe we can work out a trade 3212005013