Hi, I've just picked up a 1987 Yamaha FZR 1000 and wanted to know if there are any little tricks out there to help make it into a good basic racebike? I'm looking at air filter, jet kit and exhaust for engine. Stripping and lightening/removing everything in the chassis not needed. Then aftermarket shock maybe and braided lines, rearsets, wider 17 rear and some other little things etc. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Dom
Get the forks worked over and maybe even see if you can get a cartridge type damping unit installed. Get a new rear shock, spend lots of money here. Inside the engine, mill the top of the cyl block far enough to bring the pistons closer to the head. We use to remove the cyl base gasket on the fz750's and still had room to spare. Mill the head, these things love compression. Degree the cams and jet the carbs.
The last really fast one I got to hang around had an R6 front end, and rear rim. It also had a 6 speed transmission. I'm thinking it wasn't stock.
I alays thought the tranny ratio spacing was a little weird with the FZ tranny. Close ratio 1-5 and a wide drop to 6th. Kind of backwards to what a tranny should be.
yep they LOVE compression, you cant get enough in them with stock pistons. removing base gasket works but pain. just get a nice head done on it (the stock 5 valve porting is AWFUL) and clean it up a bit. I cant recall cam timing but i thought something like 101-103in and 104-106 ex for street/good tq. Im rebuilding a couple of old Dutchman racing & Attack YZF1040's for customer..these were way far from stock..one has Haga's magnesium YZF750SP dry clutch conversion..trick. Great bike, get suspension done and raise the rear end if you can! Personally the gear ratio on these old 1000 5valvers worked fine..its not a rev'er.
An easy way to get compression on the 87 motor is to use 89-95 rods and pistons. You'll need to have the center intake valve relief on the pistons machined back a bit otherwise the valve will clip from the 87 head. I forget exactly how much, but if you actually decide to do it, PM me and I'll dig through my notes and can hopefully find it. You'll also get a little larger diameter wristpin out of the deal. I did this on one engine and it worked great and was reasonably inexpensive - you can find the 89+ stuff pretty cheap. You can also go to a 5.5x17 inch rear wheel pretty easily. I have a couple made up for mine again using the 89+ rear wheel, axle, rotor, sprocket carrier and spacers,. Here are the steps iirc: Machine the axle blocks to take the larger 89+ axle. I think the swingarm slots need to be opened up a little bit with something like a die grinder The 89+ swingarm is a bit wider inside to inside so you need to narrow up the wheel/spacer combo and move the rotor and sprocket in a bit. I don't have any of the dimensions handy, but again can measure my stuff if when/if you are ready - or you can do what I did and just measure it up and figure it out as you go. To do this you have to machine the wheel spacers down keeping reference to the center line of the 87 so that the 89 wheel is centered. Then you'll want to turn the mounting surfaces on the sprocket carrier and the wheel for the rotor. This is where you need access to a pretty good sized lathe that can take the wheel. The sprocket carrier will fit in about any lathe. Or you can relocate the brake caliper. When it is done the wheel fitment and chain clearnace is snug and requires a bit of patience for tire swaps, but you can get modern rubber on there. And you'll need to think about ride height as there is a good chance you'll have dropped the rear a bit with the 17 depending on your tire choice. The front brakes suck. Do something with them. I have a Brembo caliper kit on mine. The don't forget to safety wire it and put on some number plates to race it .
http://www.z1cycletech.com/ contact Zaid (pronounced Canadian Z) he has years of yamamoster stuff collected. and just got one from a friend with a bunch of kit and custom parts. for sure you need the fcr carbs and carbon airbox he has.
C production 11 years ago or some future vintage class. Looks like the only mod that R6 needs is Doc Brown's DeLorean.
Thanks for being there for me. I was afraid no one would understand and it would make me be the Richard Cranium of the thread
Hey I know this post is from 7 years ago but did you used to tune and race fz750’s? I’m asking coz in my race series(Crmc) we have to run standard bore and carbs but we can play with cams and timing. Can you offer any help please? Thanks Pete
