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08 R6 Engine Rebuild

Discussion in 'Tech' started by latch, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. ed who?

    ed who? the opposite of eharmony.

    if that is metal pieces from before you pulled plug sprinkled around the valves hate to tell ya but your gonna need to clean head (not with contact cleaner!, hot tank) and replace those 4 valves! Not to mention repair the plug threads.

    As for "anti sieze" IMO its kinda a joke..yes it helps BUT the issue isn't the threads in the head..its the threads hangin in the combustion chamber! they get all carbon'd up and race fuel (lead) makes it worse..then you go to pull plug and it comes about 1/2 to 1 turn and stops...thats cause the build up hits the cylinder head threads finally and wont come out..

    The only/best way to avoid is to REMOVE PLUGS AND CLEAN threads often! I pull my race bikes (make my racers) plugs MIN 3 weekends of racing to clean threads..otherwise they just spend more $$ with me in the off season.

    :beer:
     
  2. Tunersricebowl

    Tunersricebowl Fog, onward through.

    AND anti-seize can cause the in-cautious to over tighten the plugs which is another kettle of fish entirely.
     
  3. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    Ok, I'm finally back to this and have another question or two:

    Which one of these rings goes to the top of the piston? The service manual doesn't seem to indicate... Silver TT or Black T ring to the top slot?

    [​IMG]

    Also, is the oil expander ring (wavy ring) supposed to overlap itself since it's so long, or should the ends butt against each other? I'm finding it difficult to get the expander ring and the two oil ring rails to go into the slot...

    Thanks :up:
     
  4. Tunersricebowl

    Tunersricebowl Fog, onward through.

    Double TT to the top because of its color..
    The second (oil scraper) ring is dark cast iron.
    Marks to the top of course and pay attention the the end gap stagger, it makes installation much easier..
    Oil ring expander ends MUST butt.
    The trick is to keep a finger or thumb on the two faces and start the lower rail an inch or so in front of the butt and run it past the butt which helps to keep the ends together.
    You still have to be careful threading the other rail over the butt though.
     
  5. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    Thanks again Tuner, your tips made the process as smooth as mantequilla. Probably took 5min max...

    Now if UPS would stop mis-routing delivery of my Works head gasket...

    Any particular suggestions on cam timing for a .50MM gasket?
    The Kit Manual says Event Angle = Int 105/Ext 110 for a superstock build ("depending on thickness of head gasket").
    Stupid question alert:
    When they say event angle, are they referring to max. lift? Int 105 ATDC/Ext 110 BTDC

    I was originally told that the head was milled on this bike, but I suspect that it isn't since it had a stock thickness head gasket (it does have slotted cams but I unfortunately didn't measure the timing)...
    I plan to measure the volume of the cylinder head side of the combustion chamber.
    Anyone know approx. what stock measurement would be, or any better method of determining whether or not the head was milled?
     
  6. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    the head and/or cylinders COULD be milled, and the builder took off enough to get the desired squish and use a STOCK head gasket (.60mm) vs. spending big bucks on the kit gasket.. not saying that is the case, but that is what some do.
     
  7. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    I agree. Definitely am not wanting to create any "builder didn't do what he said" drama since I barely know what I'm talking about :confused:.

    But, I do want to compare the combustion chamber size to stock to make sure I'm not headed towards astronomical compression ratios.
     
  8. Tunersricebowl

    Tunersricebowl Fog, onward through.

    Stock gaskets should be around .027 and yours is .020 so not too much closer but you DO have to check valve to piston clearances as you adjust the cam timing because like you said, the head has been shaved.
    Those numbers refer to cam lobe center measurements in relation to crankshaft degrees and have nothing to do with lift.
    Frankly, unless you are ready to buy a (good quality) degree wheel set up and proper dial indicators and tdc stop finder you are probably better off paying to have it done right.
    It is fun to do if you have plenty of time to tinker and if the subject in general appeals to you then buy the gear and some books and get cracking!
     
  9. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    If you can't check PTV correctly, then don't assume those numbers will be correct. 105 is low. Parts could hit.

    Lobe center, symmetric cam.

    Approximately 4.390" is a stock head. Unless the head is cut 0.030" or more, the CR will not be "astronomical", but you will be putting more stress on the rod bearings. Adding compression to that engine reaches a limit as you must retard cam timing as you go up and this adversely affects power delivery. It also exponentially increases the chances of bottom end failure as you increase CR.
     
  10. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    Will do. I have some checking springs and plan to double check P2V clearance.


    Thanks for the number, that's exactly what my measures to...

    Do any of you know what stock cam timing is? I'd like to know how it compares to the Graves recommendation...

    Mark
     
  11. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    states in in the manual, just don't have one in front of me right now.. if it has adjustable sprockets on the cams, it's likely not stock timing, but ya never know.
     
  12. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    Hmm, I must be blind because I haven't been able to find it in the svc manual.
     
  13. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Search for and download the race kit manual. It gives you cam timing and PTV values for a modified engine. I think it's yamaha-racingparts.com

    PTV depends upon the year model some, but time your cams to the minimum PTV rather than trying some arbitrary lobe center number and you'll get the best midrange.
     
  14. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    I like that idea!

    From Graves YEC Kit Manual
    Valve timing (event angle) SSP STK
    INT. 110° 105°
    EXT. 115° 110°
    Clearance between valve and piston (minimum)
    INT. 1.05 mm (ATDC 12°) 1.05 mm (ATDC 12°)
    EXT. 1.62 mm (BTDC 12°) 1.62 mm (BTDC 12°)
     
  15. Tunersricebowl

    Tunersricebowl Fog, onward through.

    Used to work for Pops Yoshimura..dude did not use a degree wheel (at least in the early days), valves were timed to the pistons, closer the better...as long as they missed each other.
     
  16. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Those are numbers for the 2012 engine. The 2008-2009 are a bit different. Pay attention to what year crankcases and pistons you have. Crankcases have changed slightly over the years.
     
  17. grape

    grape Active Member

    as in, the pistons are farther in the hole, or closer to the top?
     
  18. latch

    latch Well-Known Member

    Seriously, thanks for letting me know. I wouldn't have even thought about it until *boom*!
    Looks like Intake requires a little more clearance on the '08

    From the 08 Kit Manual:

    Valve timing (event angle)
    INT. = 110°
    EXT. = 110°

    Squish height 0.60mm

    Clearance between the valve and the piston
    INT. = 1.10 12° ATDC
    EXT. = 1.62 12° BTDC

    Clearance of valves (tappet)
    INT. = 0.20 targeted (0.18 – 0.22)
    EXT.= 0.25 targeted (0.23 – 0.27)
     
  19. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Average deck heights are different, yes. Newer engines are tighter.
     
  20. joeyg

    joeyg Well-Known Member

    Hey Rick, are those ptv clearence on the tight side or conservative?
     

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