Guys, In process of rebuilding a 2007 gsxr750 street bike into an exclusively track and racing bike. Im removing as many non used street components and would like the bar cluster for lights gone; however the clutch safety switch is part of the yellow harness coupler. I have isolated the color coded wires that lead to the switch and intended to just jump them as ive done with kickstand, but im finding articles advising this will not work. Aside from cutting open the segment of wire from left bar control and cutting all other wires only keeping clutch switch in place are there other options? I rather switch be gone. I do intend to have Duane Hoffer tune and flash ecu to remove any other things he can. Thoughts?
I cut the wires/removed the pod and only left the clutch switch on the bar and it works just fine. As far as I know jumping them to completely remove that switch is where you run into issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you have to keep the clutch switch, or your bike will go into limp mode. remove all the other wires out of that line as you dont need the left side cluster. keep the clutch switch and run electrical tape or a plastic spiral protector over it for crash protection
Years ago I looked into eliminating the switch and read that some have used something to jump the wire (a resistor maybe?) but have also read report of the resistors failing and causing issues etc. I wanted zero hassle so I sliced the wire loom, pulled out the wires and retained the switch, then ditched the pod.
It could be done in a flash but you lose some features. Essentially the ECU would run in the neutral mapping all the time. So you would have to copy the IAT/TPS/Ignition timing/STP maps over from the in gear maps to the neutral map. You would loose the individual gear STP mapping which isn't a huge deal in and of itself. And the rev limit for neutral/clutch in would have to be raised. Additionally if you were using Woolich for example and wanted to add the race tools you wouldn't be able to use the launch control as that depends on the clutch switch for activation. You could also add a momentary switch somewhere you had to hit just to start the bike to mimic the clutch being in for the start. Overall, I'd just keep it and pull the wires out of the harness. It's rare for that switch to fail unless damaged in a crash (and it's pretty well protected).
This is what a 2012 GSR 750 looks like....I think the connectors are different at the switch for an 07, but the yellow plug is the same.
