Chain and sprocket noise R6

To expand on that, the tooless method I use when I have a reasonable expectation that the base chassis is straight: Spinning the wheel.

Bike on a rearstand, spin the wheel for a few rotations, then look at the chain at the very back of the sprocket. If the sprocket is riding straight on the chain, it'll have room to shift slightly to the left and right. If it's hard on one side it's out of alignment.

 

Only as good as the rod is straight. I was looking at rods with reported straightness values. Those are a lot more money than anything you find at a hardware store.

 

1/2" steel rod is about $2/ft retail

 

Throw out all your sprockets and chains. Start new. A worn (chain, front sprocket, rear sprocket), will quickly destroy a new (chain, front sprocket, rear sprocket) and render any new (chain, front sprocket, rear sprocket) that is used into the realm of uselessness that will also then destroy any new (chain, front sprocket, rear sprocket).

Like a simple version of Mad Libs. But if you use a selection of gearing throughout a season (seems you do) start fresh each year, it's a maintenance thing.

And tech never said anything?

 

IMO there is no better way to check wheel alignment, although I mostly whip it out as a joke if someone is getting too picky.

 

chain 100%, but i've never worn a sprocket in a season.

 

So if it's not a magic bullet either, and requires more work/effort/storage, why would I use that over the motion pro?

Wheel alignment method aside, I'd venture to say that if you're doing seasonal replacement of the chain/sprockets, I'm not sure how you align your rear wheel really matters. Think of how many millions of chain driven bikes across the globe are functioning every day. All those squid bikes on U.S. roads with chains so rusted up and noisy that you can hear the rollers grinding as the pull up to the red light. The chain started life as an o ring chain, has been an o ring-less chain for the last 7,000 miles

 

Each tool tells you different things, it's all good data if interpreted properly.

As far as why alignment matters, and how much, how close to the pointy end of the stick are you?

 

street bike dolts have no idea how fortunate they are when it comes to ignorance of maintenance.

 

I'd be more inclined to see how "off" the motion pro tool is once the chain has been properly aligned using it, then using the rod method. To which someone else said - depends on how true the rods would be...no? Otherwise you're running into a never ending tail chase, like the guy that's obsessed with tire pressures yet is unknowingly using a gauge that's 3 lbs off.

Of course this is assuming the obvious factor - the bike is mechanically sound and doesn't have a bent swing arm/worn out linkage/bearings from a crash or whatever.

Unless a few of Mesa-like MA people come out to race at a club weekend, I'm usually on the podium and in general shoot for ~3-4 seconds off the 600 lap record on my R6.

 

If they're still being picky... send them my way.

 

The laser is just a more accurate version of the Motion Pro.

No matter what I do, I can’t get the same alignment around the entire sprocket; it is always slightly crooked because the sprocket isn’t square with the wheel. I’ve tried multiple wheels and cush drive rubber pieces. I’m hoping it’s normal and just showing up because the laser projects over a longer distance.

PROFI-CAT SPECIAL TOOLS MOTORCYCLE - 722.00.23 - CHAIN ALIGNMENT LASER L-CAT - https://a.co/d/cqPdWmd

 

You ever check the alignment between when the axle is loose, so you can actually adjust it, and when it's tight? Not always the same either.

 

Yeah. I’ve checked it both ways. I initially thought I wasn’t torquing the axle nut enough to compress the hub into the wheel fully, but even using a torque wrench to get it to 80 ft/lb, no luck. I’m going to try a new sprocket and hub this weekend.

 

This happened pretty quickly, I think once the hard coating wore off the sprocket the wear accelerated rapidly. This bike is ridden at track days 90% of the time, last time I raced it was at Daytona and the gearing was a once a year set that only gets used there, so it looks new. Track day tech isn't what it used to be.

Rode last Sunday with new chain and sprockets and it's back to it's old smooth and silent running. I only use DID ERV chains and they do last a long time- however this time I just "let it ride" a little too long. I need to start writing this stuff down again, "that engine was JUST freshened up!" then you look at the bill and it's from 2017. FWIW I do write dates on the oil filters. #nerd alert.

All is well again, except I assembled the clutch wrong so it's not slipping. But that's for another thread? Damn those R6 clutches and the silly dots!

 

All the banter and someone finally posts the best, most simple method to ensure perfect alignment

 

I’ve got the laser tool as well and have been measuring the same way. Just recently realized that the carrier/cush drive is never perfectly square. Bought some 1/2 inch and 12mm aluminum rods from McMaster Carr and some alignment cones from no mar and measure from swingarm pivot to axle now on each side