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Wheel Fitment Questions

Discussion in 'General' started by SuddenBraking, Jan 5, 2024.

  1. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    Hey all, hoping some of the more technically proficient gents can help with this. I've got a set of wheels from a BMW-era Husqvarna (2013 TE511) that I'm looking to convert to be compatible with my 2017 Husky FE350. I believe it's primarily a bearing swap out, although there may be a need for spacers as well (which is NBD for me to handle).

    Does anyone know of a good reference to figure out what bearing(s) I'd need for the front and rear?

    Thanks much, and I hope everyone's 2024 is off to a good start.
     
  2. Jon Wilkens

    Jon Wilkens Well-Known Member

    Need to know your hub ID and width. Also need to know what your axle diameter is. Easy peasy after that.
     
  3. Kurlon

    Kurlon Well-Known Member

    Bigger hammer. just keep swinging till it all fits.
     
  4. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

  5. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    Thanks - I'll get those tomorrow (it's brick ass cold in the garage today).

    After trying to sell them on FB marketplace with no luck, I figured I'd rather have a spare set of dirt wheels (already have sumo wheel set) than to throw them away.
     
  6. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    Hey, sorry for the delay here.

    DISCLAIMER: I'm kind of an idiot, and not very good with calipers. If any of these measurements look off, they likely are.

    Starting with the rear - there's a cush drive on one side that already has a bearing in it, so just one measurement from the rear.

    Diameter of 51.5mm, with a depth of 22.2mm. It WAS a 25mm axle, but the 2017 Husky has a 20mm rear axle.

    For the front, hub diameter on both sides was 41.5mm.

    However, the depth on the two sides was different - the brake side had a total depth of 18.5mm, but there was a notch (see pic) at 8.5mm deep (leaving the remainder at 10mm).

    The non-brake side had a total depth of 17.5mm, with no notching or anything else funky going on.

    The front WAS a 25mm axle, but the 2017 Husky has a 22mm front axle.

    Really appreciate the help here :beer:
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Jon Wilkens

    Jon Wilkens Well-Known Member

    Rear should be a 6304. Take your pick on metal shields, rubber seals. NSK makes a light contact seal and is designated as VV in part number. ID, OD, WIDTH for bearing is 20mm/52mm/15mm

    Front axle of 22mm is going to make that bearing a non standard 6000 series bearing. You'll have to take dimensions to a place like Motion industries or Applied Industrial for a fitment (if one even exists). My Triumph Street Triple has an odd sized rear bearing that I could only find through Triumph.
     
    SuddenBraking likes this.
  8. pawpawrc

    pawpawrc Well-Known Member

    Forgot you were the bearing guru Jon, I’ll be keeping that in mind budday!
     
  9. Jon Wilkens

    Jon Wilkens Well-Known Member

    Guru? lol Nope, but I do have a nice NSK bearing replacement guide I kept.
     
  10. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    If those wheels used bigger axles than what you need now why not use stock bearings for those wheels and make captive spacers.
     
    backbone likes this.
  11. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    Cuz I'm an idiot? If there's an easier way to do this, I'm all ears..........
     
    rogers1323 likes this.
  12. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    Just use stock bearings for that wheel and make captive spacers.
     
    backbone likes this.
  13. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

  14. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    First I would find out dimensions of those bearings. Then figure measurements for wheel width with bearings installed and compare to 17 wheels.
    Hopefully 511 wheels are not wider than 350 wheels. You also want to see if rotors and sprocket align.
    Than if all works you buy those bearings and make spacers :)
    btw. does front use spacer on both sides?
     
  15. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    I think I can handle most of that :D

    I think I'm going to buy the bearings anyways because trying to sell wheels without bearings seems like a hard sell (and candidly, I'd like to get some practice with installing wheel bearings). So once I've gotten those and installed them, I'll take those measurements.

    Thanks all - I'll keep the thread updated with my (total lack of, in all likelihood) progress.
     
  16. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    Looks like front uses 6905 bearing on both sides. Rear uses (2) 6005 bearings on left side and 63005 on right side.
    FE350 uses 6906 on front and 6005 on rear. FE350 also uses spacer on both side of front and rear wheel so as long 511 wheels are not wider (outside of bearing to outside of bearing) and align all you would need is captive spacers.
     
    SuddenBraking likes this.
  17. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    So went to install the wheel bearings in the front wheel today and realized I'm missing a couple of parts, namely 6 (spacer) and 4 (circlip) from the fiche below. Looked around online and it doesn't seem like those parts are available so I'm back to square 1.

    upload_2024-1-19_21-40-23.png
     
  18. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    Spacer can be made and circlip bought elsewhere. That is easy.
     
  19. Holy babbling wealth of knowledge Batman :) Like ChatGPT for bearings- which is awesome. I was actually going to check an excel file I have with all this crap. I have 3 EXC’s and at lease one end of each one does not have the oem size so I have to keep track.
     
    Jon Wilkens likes this.
  20. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

    So besides some money in your paypal account, what else do you need from me for the spacer(s)? :D

    My preferred order of operations was:

    1) Install bearings
    2) Hope bearing-ful wheels were narrower than stock FE350 wheels
    3) Provide measurements to you
    4) You made captive wheel spacers (and new hub spacers?)
    5) I crash bike into nearest tree with new wheels on

    It sounds like nothing about that would change now, except I'd likely need to go through two sets of bearings for each wheel. One to measure, and then I'll need to remove and install a second set once I've gotten then correct hub spacer. Does that sound right? I likely could reuse the bearings but for both safety and practice I'm more than happy to buy and install multiple sets.
     

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