Edgecam SUCKS. PERIOD. I hate it, I've always hated it. . My boss bought it WAY back in the day when the shop next door used it (and before I got there) because the programmer he had was new, and he figured they could get help form next door. That shop switched to Mastercam shortly after, but we're still edgecam. It works, but you really have to use it the way IT wants to be used, or you'll start banging your head against a desk. I've figured out a bunch of workarounds over the years, and am at the point where it doesn't bother me much anymore. I get reliable code, that I know 100% what it's going to do when I hit cycle start, so that's all that matters. It's really not the program for the type of work we do, that's for sure. It does have a good post processor editor, I'll give it that, and I've done a bunch of tweaking over the years to get it how I want. Still have to do some more fiddling for the tormach post, but I'm getting there. I think they're bigger in britain/europe. I really don't understand their market. They're more expensive than other options, and not as good lol. My tormach is an older model, and 5200rpm is all it's got. I'm not sure I could even reliably up the feedrate to utilize the a speeder on the tormach if I wanted to anyway. Trading one problem for another. I might at some point add a second high speed spindle off the side of the column, but that's in the future. I'd rather just build a small dedicated high speed gantry machine from epoxy granite if the mold stuff takes off. Been wanting to build one for a few years anyway. I have a looooogn list of projects lol.
Getting this ready for the coming season. My 13yr old sons mini race truck. Just finished the paint and seat install. Couple things left to do and then wait for the track to open for 1st practice
They are a GX390 Honda with a horsepower limit of 20hp. Will do about 65mph on the 1/4mile oval they run.
Question on epoxy or equivalent flooring and waterproofing a garage space. TL/DR: Can you waterproof the area (to a degree) by wrapping up the walls ~6 inches so the walls are protected from water on the ground? If so, how? LS: We are having a garage built and typical timber frame on concrete slab, with skirting board on drywall. Our builder has proposed an epoxy floor. I like the idea of bring the epoxy a few inches up the wall as I'm expecting water through there at some point. I'm sure I've seen it in restaurant kitchens or somewhere but could be mistaken. Can it be done or is the cost prohibitive/not worth it for residential?
Couple of things.. You say typical timber frame, which wouldn’t be typical for a garage. Stud wall construction, out of wood I assume is what you mean. Timber frame is a thing and just like the name suggests it uses timbers for the supporting structure. Construction for good reason can vary depending on location, it would help to know the general area you are in. Why do you expect multiple inches of water? Here in the northeast either a floor drain or a sloped floor forwards the doors is required by code. No experience with epoxy over drywall, but we have Chemguy for that. Personally I think I would want a water proof membrane/material over the drywall and seal or flash it at the bottom. Good luck with the build!
Thank you, that's what I meant construction wise, versus say steel or brick. The garage has a rear roller door for access. I'm in Brisbane (Australia not CA) where we've just had some decent flooding. I experienced serious run off I could not and probably will not be able to fully mitigate. I've significantly adjusted drainage plans as a result of this most recent weather; additional drain points, separate and oversized drainage pipes etc. but I'm conscious the whole system may still be be overwhelmed if it comes through hard enough, and following gravity and path of least resistance, it will go through the garage from back to front (roller door at rear) the way the block is situated. Pic attached might make more sense. Anyway, a bit off topic but thanks for the reply.
This was discussed (maybe in this thread), and someone suggested a row of cheap ceramic tile around the bottom of the walls. Seems like a good idea to me- at least around here that would be pretty cheap and easy to do.
Instead of starting the wood frame at slab level you could add a row or two of brick/masonry on top of the slab and then put wood frame on top of that.
Why not just curb the foundation. I'm building a shop this spring (hopefully), and doing a full 4' foundation wall around the slab. I'll have it extend 8" above grade, so I can wash the floor without worrying about the bottom of the wall wicking up moisture.
Had a good day tooling around in the shop. Machined another brand on the CNC for the wifes business logo (figured out a MUCH quicker and cheaper way to program and cut these), and designed, 3d printed a pattern, and cast a part to try out a new process. The part is complete shit, but it was a good test. The pattern had ZERO prep work, just straight off the print bed and into the sand. The results show. Will redo it tomorrow, I just wanted to test to see how much I could get away with.
Sorry. I'm coming out of winter hibernation where I don't do anything except get fat and hold the couch down . I'm trying to get as much done as I can before summer comes and it's too hot to do anything . I'm printing more patterns and have the foundry heating up right now.
Those look awesome Glen! This was an interesting shop filled weekend. Started off designing and 3d printing some patterns, casting some parts, and finished machining them tonight. Now I have 5 more sets to do. My first time working through this process like this, so I'm pretty happy with the results. A few more things to iron out and details to work through, but it went pretty well.