My new to me ‘17 GSXR 1000 was tuned with Woolich and has the Woolich Quickshifter. I am missing the 4/5 upshift 50-plus percent of the time. I’ve resorted to old-school throttle roll-off clutchless shifting for this gear change and even used the clutch a couple times for 4/5 upshift. Both the roll off and clutched 4/5 upshift works smoothly. The quickshifter works beautifully for every other up or down shift. (Auto blip is stupid fun.) My tuner couldn’t duplicate the problem on the Dyno, but “adjusted the sensitivity” to hopefully resolve problem. His adjustment made no difference. I continue having the same issue on track during race or trackday. The ladder allowed me more bandwidth to make sure I was really deliberately making a clean, strong 4/5 upshift. Any suggestions?
Maybe make some mental notes to narrow the problem down. Does it feel like there's an ignition cut? If there is, does it feel like it just doesn't want to go into the next gear? Maybe the kill time for that gear is too short?
It does seem to me that extending the kill time would solve the issue. However, I am told that Woolich doesn’t actually have a kill time adjustment but utilizes a “sensitivity” adjustment, which so far has netted no improvement.
It seems odd that it can't be adjusted in their "Race Tools" section of the software. But I have never touched the Woolich for Suzukis.
It sounds like you don't have the "race tools" options on the Woolich. Is your bike using the stock QS sensor or the Cordona one Woolich sells with the race tools, that's the quickest way I know to determine whether you have the race tools or not. If you don't, it looks like the standard bin file only allows QS/Blip activation voltages which sounds like what the tuner may have adjusted for the sensitivity. With race tools there should be a full grid of settings for the QS along with the option to kill spark or fuel or both. Something like this (this is from a newer model 750 so there would be differences)
Thanks for this info. I missed your post initially because of a season-ending spill (probably at least partially caused by me trying to ride around this shifting issue). Late last fall, I took bike to Barnes Bros MC for mechanical tranny inspection. They did find some scarring, marring, and other problems. Now, the new and old tranny components are in queue at Orient Express for back-cutting and polishing. I’ll post again with results of said solution once I’ve ridden it again.
I had the same issue on my r6, it turned out to have an aftermarket race clutch that was too thick. I had the guys throw a oem clutch set and it was all good. I also had issue going into neutral, it would be tougher then normal. Maybe your clutch pack is too thick or may need an adjustment at the worm screw.
hopefully not garbage barnett fibers. R6 clutches need to be at the higher end of the stack spec for better service life. Curious if your setup has all the slipper springs or just 1.
Sounds like you’ve got so many “fixes” in play that if the problem is solved you won’t know which one was the actual source of the “failure.”
I never really examined the old clutches, I did keep them as back up spares. But the mechanics measure the thickness and said it was over shimmed, and if they took out a shim it wouldnt be in range. Once we mounted the oem clutches, spacers, etc the bike shifted perfect and went into neutral very easily. Before 4th or 5th gear was difficult to shift, and many times I would turn off the bike to put it into neutral. The clutch pressure on the lever was heavier with the race clutch, so more likely they replaced the springs
