3D printers

I changed the design a bit to print with the carbon filament to add a bit more strength and and to allow space for the harness, which I overlooked initially, but this is the rough idea.

 

That's not how you want to print the model for threaded features.

If I'm OK with just threading into plastic, I'll put a hole slightly under the clearance drill size and make sure I have 3 walls on the setting. Then drill and tap.
If I want metal threads, I'll cut a hex shape in the 3D model and press a nut in there. Just take the screw and pull the hex in until it bottoms out. Much easier than gluing a threaded insert. Don't have a picture handy to show what I mean.

 

The OEM cluster is a coarse threaded piece of hardware into (ABS) plastic. That was my thinking on replicating the design. However, you make a good point that I could just use a nut and bolt. There's literally no load on this piece of hardware other than to secure it through the rubber grommet in the fairing stay. Unless, of course, an unplanned inverted flight path should befall the motorcycle.

I'm unfamiliar with the "3 walls" setting. You mean the thickness of the walls printed? Is it a universal setting or something that could be applied locally?

 

Here's the new model. Little bit more support and I changed the hole diameters to a looser tolerance to hopefully make threading a bit easier and to allow room for the harness. I'll give it a go tomorrow. @YoshiHNS does what you're talking about happen at the slicing or modeling stage? Slicing, I would imagine.

 

@metricdevilmoto I do it at the model level. The 3 wall setting i think is called perimeters.

 

Oh and for a crazy level of control Simplify3D. You can alter a lot of parameters though it is more complicated than Cura.

 

Thanks. I'm going to look into that now. The last time I used software like this was AutoCad about 20 years ago in college and the vast majority of that was 2D. Aside from motorcycle geometry software, I don't have any relevant experience. I used TinkerCAD for the stuff I did today, but I thought the spatial measurements weren't that intuitive, but I wasn't going to complain because it was free to use. I don't mind spending money on real software, I just want to get the thing that does what I want, which seems pretty basic given what the hardware is capable of.

 

@YoshiHNS since I can't attach pics in the private messages, here you go.

 

Looks great!

Oh. Side note on carbon filament. Don't bother with them other than the Nylon versions. Pretty much shown that most of the carbon/fiberglass infused materials just makes them weaker and more brittle. It's why I like using PETG unless I need something special.

You can kill a few hours easily looking at all the variations on MatterHackers to start.

 

what filament did you use?

 

SunTop PLA carbon fiber.

Thanks. And good to know. I'll check that out tonight.

 

Got my Ender V2 built today, running a test print now. Getting the bed where I want it was harder than anticipated. Just running some PLA as well but want to get some PETG or something that can better handle bike parts

 

I printed a PETG air baffle that replaced the OEM plastic air baffle for my Ninja 650. It bolts onto the valve cover so not super hot, but not exactly low temp either. My design doesn’t block as much of the airflow to the airbox and held up great this last weekend at Indy!

 

Petg does great at higher temps. Not so much at freezing temps. Surprised how brittle it becomes.

 

You can do different infill densities in different areas of the part. so you could do 100% infill in those areas and 15 or 20% everywhere else. I've done this on some hanging things that need a strong hook but light weight or similar mounting things like you're doing. It's a bit much to describe and I don't want to get a vacation from posting a video but if you search "3 cura slicer setting tricks for beginners" on the page "Chep" on youtube he has a good outline on how to do it. I believe its his 3rd "trick" in the video.

 

that's awesome - is it something you would be willing to share?

 

Sure, no sweat! I can put it up on the Prusa database for downloading. Will paste a link after I upload it.

 

^^ thanks!!!!

 

It looks like some printers are included in Prime Day, anyone have advice for a ~$300 printer? Or should I just get the Ender V2 and call it good?
Prime Day Printers
Ender V2 Upgraded

 

Here’s the air baffle I designed for my Kawi 650 (2009). It opens up the path to the airbox but still keeps hot radiator air out of the intake. It uses a couple of shoulder bolts to attach it to the cylinder head. Of course you can import and tweak the file as you see fit!

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/43191-kawasaki-er6-valve-cover-air-baffle