Post your road bicycle

A build like that deserves better photos.

 

I don't want to shit on your build, but although that thing might be super lightweight, it's just not going to go very far without cranks, pedals, handlebars, etc. The seat also looks super uncomfortable (or super comfortable if you're into that sort of thing).

 

I've got a Specialized Tarmac Pro SL7 delivering on Tuesday. Do these things come with everything needed to get them together (mineral fluid, carbon seat post paste, etc.)?

Being delivered straight from the factory. Debating if i should tackle assembly myself or just take it to a dealer. Last thing I wanna do is ham-fist a fastener and strip something on a bicycle that costs more than some motorcycles.

 

Colnago C-40, carbon fiber frame, steel fork. Size-60 (actually TT 58 ctc, ST 58ctc)
Factory Art-Deco paint job
Campagnolo Record 9speed drive train & brakes
Chris King headset
Quill, Ritchey Stem, Ritchey bars
Selle Italia seat
Mavic CXP-30 rims with 32 hole Campagnolo Record hubs.
Vittoria Tires

 

If you've done all the above and it still has a creak in it, as @Cannoli said, start at the outside and work your way in.
Tighten the pedals. Then tighten the chainring bolts. Then tighten the cranks.
Then tighten the front deraileuer. Then tighten the rear deraileuer.
Then make sure the cogset or casette is on tight.
Then do the rear quick release. Then do the front quick release.
Now double check your headset - See if there is ANY play.
Check your stem connection to your fork.
Check your stem connection to your handlebars
Check your shifters/brakes to your handlebars.
Check your seatpost to the frame. (This one would be a prime suspect for me)
Check your seat to your seatpost. (This one would be a prime suspect for me)

The other thing that may be happening, is that the frame is actually flexing under the strain.
I don't know your size/weight, but you may be causing the frame to rock.
The other thing is that if you have a lower cadence (80 pedal strokes/min) but higher power per stroke, compared with 100 pedal strokes/min and lower power per stroke, you may be torquing the frame/seat/BB triangle.

Hopefully it's not as bad as chasing ghosts in the Italian Electrics in my '79 Vespa.

 

You should have that stuff for spares anyway really.

I’m super picky with my stuff and would rather build my own than have a shop do it. I had a shop cut down my steer tube and they pried my new ultralight spacers off with a screwdriver leaving gouges in them when all you have to do is pull down on the fork a little.

And congrats on the new bike!

 

Yeah, I stripped it to the bare frame. Stem, seat post, fork, Both derailleurs, all of it removed. The only thing I didn’t pull apart in the last effort was the rear wheel/cogs. And still a creak. I do feel the frame flex a little when I pedal harder and that’s what got me to thinking I’ve got an out of spec bottom bracket area. Also the new BB mates on the outer surface of the BB whereas the old one did not. So I still need to face the BB surfaces and maybe try a different rear wheel. But I’ve just been riding the Canyon and enjoying that for now.

 

Cervelo R3 2014
Di2 Ultegra
Reynolds Carbon Wheels
probably too much bike for me but it makes climbing easy when we go ride around the lake.

 

After a year of being laid up due to a crazy accident and injury, I finally finished up my, all used part build. She’s gonna be fast when I can put some power out!

 

Love the sprint.

 

I got into the 'road' world this past year. Started out with a used Checkpoint SL5 (with SL6 components) from the local bike shop. Got into it on a series of group rides and flipped up into the Checkpoint SL7. Mainly better wheels, 1x12-speed Eagle and the electronic shifting (nice, but not world changing IMO).

I wasn't sure if I'd like the genre at first, as I'm not a fan of riding on the roads, but around here there is plenty of gravel and a bunch of places to get away from any traffic. The mileage definitely helps the single track riding on the MTB.

 

The brakes arent pre bled? That can be a PIA. You wont really need the carbon paste til you final fit the bike.
Some brands require an authorized shop to assemble for warranty purposes. Having a relationship with an LBS isnt a bad thing.

 

This is a GREAT thing. And, if you have more than one, find the one you like best. Keep them supplied in quality beer - whatever they like. You will reap the rewards.

Cheers,

Dave

 

Specialized claim on the warranty paperwork that it must be assembled by an authorized dealer for the warranty to be valid. I’m not sure if you need the invoice from assembly to claim a frame warranty but I paid $65 For my SL5 frameset build up just in case. I would have gladly done it myself, but $65-$100 isn’t a bad price either. Hell, it’s cheaper than my labor rate!

 

Yea. I got scared. Got the bike today. Looked in the box. Saw wires coming out of the seat post and stem, and I said 'Nope'!

Dropped it off at a Specialized dealer, and they'll get it dialed for $100. That includes updating the firmware on the shifters (Di2), and they'll do a basic fit. Their normal service is booked through October, but they have a builder than can get to my bike next week. Money well spent. I probably would have figured it out, but it would have been stressful and taken me forever, and I definitely don't want to deal with voiding a warranty.

 

Not mine - just cool. Daytona 2006 or so

 

Good idea! You’ll likely find that the LBS techs love building up new bikes.

 

I will own a penny-farthing some day!

 

They were excited to see the specific bike I brought in. They hadn't seen the new Tarmac SL7 Pro in red tint in person, and they opened the box on the spot to check it out.

I'll get my hands dirty with some of my own maintenance, but this is my first fairly expensive bike, and I didn't want to screw it up right outta the gate!