I only researched 5th wheels so I could be wrong but I think GCWR includes the trailer no matter what type. Of course if you're Toyota you can pull the space shuttle and get away with it.....
That’s right — your max legal limit for towing a trailer of any type is your gross combined weight rating (GCWR). But then your carried in the bed payload like a 5th wheel is limited by your payload capacity that you get by subtracting the weight of your truck from your gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Front and Rear Axle Weight Ratings and tire load ratings should be considered too, but axles and tires are usually the same across non-dually 2500s and 3500s so they typically aren’t a limiting factor in any of the calculations. So my 8300 lb 2500 with a GVWR of 10000 and a GCWR of 26000 can legally only pull a fifth wheel with a pin weight of 1700 lbs, but I could legally pull a conventional trailer off a hitch that’s 17,700, provided I don’t exceed the axle ratings or the tire ratings. Would I? Hell no I wouldn’t pull a trailer that heavy with this truck, but that’s the legal calculations.
Right. I wanna see all the equations in algebraic form first thing in the morning, quiz to follow. Nobody knows what the hell the numbers mean cuz the damn factories won't cough up to putting out consistent information. They'll tell you that you can only tow 20Klbs and it doesn't matter whether it's tag or 5th and in the same breath tell you your GCVWR is 37K. WTH? Who the fuck's puttin' 10Klbs in their 7Klb truck? In the next breath they tell that it does make a difference whether it's a tag or a 5th but offer numbers that don't add up.
17 Dodge Ram 5.7 , 4x4 , limited night edition. 4 door . After a 04 Dakota 4.7 , 4x4 , club cab , after a 95 Dakota 318 v8 , 2x , club cab Dodge trucks have been great to me !! 95 - 289, 000. Miles 04 -267,000.Miles 17 - 25,000. Miles so far All purchased new with no major problems!
Happy with my '14 RAM 1500 with 100K miles, no major issues so far. I'd be happy if I get 300k miles with no major powertrain related issues.
I have a 2006 F250 with the 6.0 powerstroke I purchased for $17k 4 years ago and have put $28k into it if that helps.
For those who have owned a Ram 1500 then moved up to the 2500, is the ride a lot more jarring? I've been hemming n hawing on whether or not it's time to get rid of my lil diesel or not.
I have a 2019 1500 and 2019 2500 right now so I drive them back to back a lot. The 1500 without a doubt rides much smoother even with 22's and low pro tires but the 2500 does not beat me up. The two main things I've noticed is the 2500 will get a rhythmic bounce going on certain concrete highways with expansion joints and it will shake you around when hitting multiple large potholes/bumps right in a row. The wife and I take the 2500 90% of the time now because I prefer the driving experience of the Cummins and riding higher up. I will also mention that I really like the steering feel in the 2500 and it is dead quiet while cruising at 70-75. If you want diesel noises the 2019 Cummins are not a good choice, even under load the motor is almost silent.
Your payload capacity is still hit by your trailer, 5ver or otherwise. Payload capacity is simply GVWR - whatever your weighed axle weights are - a 170lb driver. don’t forget your RAWR as well!
Knotcher, you are correct, but it isn't an apples to apples comparison between 5th-wheel towing and conventional towing off a hitch. The safe tongue weight for a conventional trailer is generally accepted to be 10-15% of the trailer weight. Safe pin weight for a 5th wheel is 15-25% of the trailer weight. So working under the same payload limit you can pull a significantly heavier conventional trailer. People often forget the weight of the fifth wheel hitch is part of the calculation too, which they can easily run 200-250 lbs, though there are more expensive lighter weight options available. People like maths here, so my 1700 lb payload capacity with a 12.5% tongue weight on a conventional trailer means I can legally pull a 13,600 lb trailer. Sure, you probably have to factor in the weight of a weight distributing hitch, but they generally aren't that heavy, typically 75 lbs or less. With a fifth wheel at a 20% pin weight and a 200 lb fifth wheel hitch, so available payload is 1500 lbs, I can only legally pull a 7500 lb fifth wheel based off the payload available under the GVWR. You are right in pointing out though that EVERYTHING you have in the truck counts against your payload too -- so people, luggage, motorcycles in the bed, etc. So that payload capacity, and legal towing capacity ESPECIALLY for a fifth wheel, evaporates quickly when your payload margins are tight like they tend to be on 3/4 ton trucks. Edit: FifthWheelST.com is a great resource on this topic, and they have an app called RV Tow Check that you just plug your truck's numbers into and it spits out what you can tow by hitch type. It's pretty nice. For total accuracy, I went back and checked and my GCWR with my truck’s options is 25,300. But Ram publishes a pretty handy towing capacity chart for their trucks that’s broken out by cab size, drivetrain (2WD vs 4WD), engine, and transmission. That is worth researching for anyone looking into buying a 3/4 ton and wants to get in the details of their specific truck’s capability. I found mine just by searching “2016 Ram 2500 towing capacity.”
It is a trap, and one of the oldest ones around. It sounds good because it makes people think "its like a free truck for 4 months". 1. It isn't a "deal" unless they are lowering the price of the vehicle, a lot. 2. By the time you leave the lot, and then make your first payment 4 months later, that truck has devalued a metric shitload. THAT is where the "trap" part comes in. Now you are upside down on the truck, and they have you locked in until you pay it off...or at least for several years until things swing back in your favor. BTW - the whole "special financing for 84 months" thing isn't really a deal either, because you are talking about financing something over 7 years. Sure, your payment will be lower, but you aren't paying much towards the principal. Which means they also have you trapped until you pay it off. The only way you come out good in a "deal" like that is if you get 0% interest, AND you are the type of person to keep a vehicle for 8-10 years.
......or if you are the type to pay things off quickly. I think my original loan term on my 2015 F150 was 72 months (lol) at around 3%. Got a great deal on the truck/trade, and paid it off in a little over 3 years instead of 6. I also tend to keep my vehicles on a 10-year cycle. It's not an insane amount of savings (maybe a couple thousand in interest over that time), but if you have the ability to pay anything with interest off as quickly as possible you should.......
Curious, is that because it had to be bulletproofed and that is how expensive it is to do a 6.0? I have a 2008 F350 6.4 Powerstroke that I bought about 18 months ago and haven't put a penny in except diesel. I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax/Allison that I've owned for 8-10 years and I did the injectors a month after buying it. It is apart again now for another round of injectors. I think I got around 80-100K out of the last set of injectors.
My buddy's RAM 2500 drives like a sports car compared to my F-350. The F-350 drives like, ahem, a truck. It's a Cadillac with a load, tho'. Funny thing is, the F-250 I had was painful when taken off road or down unimproved roads, I felt every pebble, stone, ant fart...it was a brutal ride. Put a load in it and it was still painful.
Yep, valid point. If someone is going to pay something off early, and keep something for a long time, then it doesn't matter how long it is financed (assuming the interest rate is low or 0).
