That setup on the SV is standalone, and works via fuel cut right? Just the PCV and QS plugged straight into it, no other modules required?
For people that have used all those options, is there a huge difference? In drag racing we used airshifters that cut the ignition to ground and that worked fine. When I was a kid I used play around and do it my pushing the red kill button on the handlebar after a flatrack racer told my dad that is how he shifted. My son used the Dynojet stuff when he raced his R6. I actually didn't think it would change laptimes very much, but saw with my eyes how it affected him at California speedway when it went bad one weekend. You come out of turn 3/4 onto a back straight that is curved the entire time. When shifting yourself, while leaned over, the bike wouldn't react as well and I think he said the rear would either step out or just with weight transfer, it was effecting his drive and he would lose a few bike lengths. After seeing it with my own eyes, at least on that small section, while cranked over and rolling through the gears it definitely made a difference.
I've been using these on my GSXR's for several years. https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/iqse/ Adjustable via bluetooth....simple setup and install. Standalone, no other modules, etc are needed. It has worked flawlessly on my 07 GSXR 750 .....A few weeks ago, i had to tweak the install of the QSE on my '12 GSXR 600 to get it right. Works great but operator error was giving me trouble.
Tapping the kill switch works great, but you can't do it fast enough, and so you lose some drive. With a properly set up shifter, the cut time is in the 40-60ms range, and can save you 100-200ms in lap time per shift. By holding the throttle WFO and keeping the engine turning, you maintain the air flow through the engine even if it isn't making any power; as soon as the cut time expires, the engine is immediately back to full power, without having to re-establish the airflow. ~0.1 seconds per shift. Every shift. Every lap. It adds upp pretty quickly to real time and real bike lengths.
Except for the BT phone or laptop needed to adjust the cut-time. I prefer a rock-stupid knob large enough to be gripped by a gloved hand.
