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Rearset positioning

Discussion in 'Tech' started by prm, Feb 17, 2020.

  1. prm

    prm Well-Known Member

    Any real science as to where they should be? What movement can you do to check positioning? For reference, I’m going from stock to the new Vortex adjustable Rearsets on my R6. I have a 29”-30” inseam. For the moment I have them all the way forward and up. I think it feels good.
     
  2. Pneumatico Delle Vittorie

    Pneumatico Delle Vittorie Retired "Tire" Guy

    Inseam oh hell no, how's your butt position?
    [​IMG]
     
    StaccatoFan likes this.
  3. pscook

    pscook Well-Known Member

    Couple of quick notes for rearsets: Up and back puts more weight on the front end, down and forward moves your head and shoulders up. Up and forward cramps your hips. If you are comfortable then you're done until you get on track to test them out.
     
  4. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    Having the pegs down can lead to them scraping on a bumpy track and / or a track with large curbs.
    On a 1000, having the pegs back a bit helps keep you from feeling like the bike is trying to throw you off the back of the bike. Probably not as big of a problem with a 600, but could be depending on your seat set up. You do not want to be hanging onto the bars to keep you on the bike.
     
  5. 2MM

    2MM Well-Known Member

    I typically start slightly up and slightly back from stock rear set position then adjust as what feels the most comfortable after riding a session. Have them side by side when assembling the new rear sets to compare.
     
  6. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    the science would be doing front and rear weights... finding the center of the bike and seeing how much movement you can accomplish as the ballast.

    I seem to recall there was at least an inch in every direction available on the vortex for most models.
     
  7. prm

    prm Well-Known Member

    A couple factors got me thinking about this:
    1) In order to hang off, the peg needs to be high enough to give the bottom of your thigh enough room to clear the seat. “Clear the seat” may not be exactly accurate, but rather having the desirable balance of weight on the bottom of the thigh against the seat and the foot on the outer peg in a turn. So, the measurement of your lower leg (back of knee where it bends to the floor-assuming neutral foot flexion) is an indication of how high the peg should be relative to the top of the seat.
    2) In order to get my knee into the side of the tank, I would have to flex my foot to raise my knee. So, getting the knee to a good spot on the tank without excess foot flexion is an indicator of both peg height and fore vs. aft position.
    3) Where the pegs are located can impact weight distribution on the tires as you vary your weighting of the pegs during entry, cornering and exit. That could be important. Well, for those playing with the limits of traction anyway (which would not be me-yet).

    My first ride with them felt pretty good. Much easier to move side-to-side! My knees were in a higher position where it was easier to manipulate the bike. Still some refinement in brake and shifter position to try. I may try moving the pegs back just for comparison.
     
  8. Ra.Ge. Raptor

    Ra.Ge. Raptor wanna_be_fast

    I think you would want them as low as possible (till they start dragging,then move them up a bit) , in order to be able to load them as efficiently as possible.

    front/back position would be determined by the shape of the gas tank and/or seat.
    if you're too close to the tank you move them a little to the back.
    if you're too far behind ,you move them to the front.
     
  9. prm

    prm Well-Known Member

    I agree with having them low, as long as I can still easily move across seat.
     
  10. stangmx13

    stangmx13 Well-Known Member

    I have a 32" inseam running Vortex rearsets on a 15' R6. the highest setting is just high enough to reduce scraping the levers. ive tried all the fore-aft settings and cant tell the difference. most forward makes it easier to shift with my size 9 boots as the lever is mounted to the frame.

    all this talk about changes in weight bias is overblown. moving your feet an inch without relocating your butt is not going to appreciable change your center of gravity. so any weight bias change will be tiny. if you can feel a difference in grip or feedback from either tire, add/subtract a turn of preload and you'll be back to where you started - and thats a big "if".
     
  11. Senna

    Senna Well-Known Member

    I set them where they're comfortable, and then go out and see what happens on track. If they drag, I move them up one.

    One thing I do to test them is set the bike up on a front and rear stand and do no-handed transitions from side-to-side to ensure I don't put too much weight into the bars with the new setup.

    On my 300 I have Woodcrafts, I have them set on the lowest "circle." They are set back and and in that circle.

    Generally, I tend to favor rearsets in a forward position as it takes more weight off my hands (credit to @Gorilla George for that one), but I had issues with pegs dragging with forward/low on the 300 and it does cramp my legs up a bit more.
     
    Gorilla George likes this.

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