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FZ-07 AARRRrrrrrr Winter projects

Discussion in 'General' started by Gino230, Jan 31, 2020.

  1. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    So, the rear brake project is done, using the Robem Engineering caliper hanger, my shaved caliper which I drilled to make it floating, taking Zoran's advice. Used the shoulder bolts cut to custom length. I had to trim the threads with an angle grinder. One of my more interesting mishaps occurred when, after trimming the threads, I put my hand down to push myself up from the sitting position (the vice on the garage floor is my machine shop) and accidentally put my palm right on top of the red hot piece of leftover thread. Therefore I have a semi permanent template of M8x1.25 threads in my palm, which made for awesome conversation over Christmas dinner.

    So now we have saved probably 2 lbs with the lighter hanger and caliper, and we can use R6 wheels, both stock and the Marchesini Aluminum ones interchangeably. This will help with the tire budget, especially in the off season when I ride my R6 alot. Also, my MotoAmerica takeoffs have tons of life left, so it will be nice to be able to run the R6 with semi- fresh rubber for trackdays, etc.

    FZ Rear setum.jpg
    FZ rear setup 2.jpg Hand.jpg
     
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  2. motion

    motion Nihilistic Member

    That's cool. I would pay good money to have that scar on my hand :)
     
    KneeDragger_c69 and Gino230 like this.
  3. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    On to the front end. I was complaining at NJ about how harsh the front felt, so I sent the forks to Thermosman FL (Seth Starnes is Mike's Florida protege now) where they softened up the valving, new seals, and added the Graves quick change brackets that I got with the forks but never installed. Got some new hardware for the fender and made that all nice, general cleanup on the pads and pistons. Nothing fancy.

    Next project was a steering damper. I used good 'ol parts bin engineering and eBay aluminum brackets to rig this damper to the fairing stay. Since my bike uses Robem Engineering Triples and Moto2 bodywork, the fairing stays are different and there wasn't a bolt on solution. So this will be up for testing in 2 weeks.

    Damper.jpg
     
  4. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    Now on to the more exciting stuff- MORE POWAAAHHH! (nod to Ghetto Customs).

    There are alot of intake setups for the FZ's and not many are the same. Hordpower airbox seems popular, with some sort of shroud to pass tech. I started out running pods (which sucked) then stacks (gained 2 HP), then stacks with a shroud for tech (same HP).

    After the last race of the year I contacted Andy Palmer and after some conversation, bought the airbox off Parrish's Yamaha. This is pretty much Andy's latest design, and I thought I would see some HP gains. The airbox didn't come with any type of filter or screen, and being the worry wart that I am, I rigged a screen so at least I would be safe from rocks getting in.

    airbox2.jpg
    airbox1.jpg
     
  5. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    So, then it's off to the dyno. My buddy Alan at Precision Performance ran it on the VP MGP spec fuel and while there was no HP increase over the stacks (82 HP), the midrange fattened up considerably and the torque is pretty much flat. So I should feel a little more acceleration coming off the corner.

    Here is where it gets interesting. Alan put the dyno fan directly in front of the airbox inlet and was able to achieve a 2 HP gain across the board, to 84HP. So this got the wheels turning about ram air.

    In my discussion with Andy, he didn't seem to think the ram air was worth it, as on Draik's bike at Road America there was only a 1-2 MPH speed difference. But Alan seems to be convinced that it is worth it. Which brings up the second problem. My bodywork is different from everyone else's, and where the airbox inlet is, it's not exactly a great spot for picking up fresh air.

    FZ airbox.jpg
     
  6. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    Which brings us to today, where I'm on the car racing websites looking at tubing.

    The front of the bodywork has a 3" square-ish opening. There is lots of room inside the bodywork to get a pretty straight shot down the side of the bike with a 3" air duct. The car site also sells all kinds of bumper inlets that come down to a 3" opening, so something could easily be made up to go from the inlet on the front of the fairing, down the side of the fairing (on the inside, of course) and be fixed up to the airbox inlet.

    FZ intake.jpg
     
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  7. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    I ordered this stuff, going to see if I can fit it up.

    3620.JPG
    3623-PLUS-2018.JPG
    3624-PLUS-2018.JPG
     
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  8. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    My concerns are the following:

    1. is a 3" inlet / tube going to provide enough flow to keep the engine happy?

    2. if I do seal the system to the airbox inlet, again, will I be creating too much of a restriction at lower speeds?

    I was thinking about this and I remembered my (very short) foray into car racing, my car had a little NACA duct with a 3" hose on it for driver cooling. Even going 35 MPH that thing had a significant amount of air coming in, I remember being surprised by it. So my little 3" opening on the front of the bike should provide alot of flow, especially as the speeds build.

    Of course I know there's no way to really know without sophisticated modeling or simply testing it out.

    Also, it's pretty much moot as far as lap times are concerned, since a 2 HP difference is not going to mean didly vs. carrying, say 2-3 MPH extra corner speed.

    However, it's the winter, and we need something at least mildly race related to talk about. Clarence and Robby notwithstanding.
     
  9. turbulence

    turbulence Well-Known Member

    what do you think this is, a motorcycle forum??




    in all seriousness.. cool stuff. do you HAVE to seal the air ducting to the airbox, or can you just point it at the inlets, like you did with the fan on the dyno? that way you still get low speed air, but when the speeds pick up the ram air starts pushing air into the airbox?

    also, if that inlet is bigger than the tube, you're going to get a venturi effect with an increase in air velocity as the tube narrows.
     
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  10. ChemGuy

    ChemGuy Harden The F%@# Up!

    So the 1st gen SV I bought came with a speed works ram air air box and snout. The intake for that is maybe 1" high and 4in wide. I don't know if it works but that huge hole you have should provide plenty of air flow.

    Do you have a data logger? You could put in an air pressure sensor and see if you can get a pressure increase at high speed.
     
    Gino230 likes this.
  11. SPL170db

    SPL170db Trackday winner

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  12. JBall

    JBall REALLY senior member

    Interesting stuff. Also like the axle block up arrow that points down.
     
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  13. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    I thought of that too. We did that with my old 1000 DS for super sport, we had the ducts pointing right at the snorkels but with a little gap so it wasn't sealed. I figure by doing it that way, it can't hurt. But I have a feeling there's going to be lots of air getting delivered.

    Also, sealing the tube to the airbox also effectively enlarges the size of the box, which could change the dynamics somewhat.
     
  14. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    Yeah that one was machined with the arrow pointing the wrong way, so my sponsor Roaring Toyz gave me a good deal on it!
     
    JBall likes this.
  15. Gino230

    Gino230 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, no data logger. What do you think this is, MotoGP? We're dealing with the 25th place Lightweight bike here. :Poke:
     
  16. roy826ex

    roy826ex Been around here a while

    Good stuff!

    keep going...
     
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  17. cajun636

    cajun636 Honda Junkie.

    Watching this space!!! :D
     
    Dragginass likes this.
  18. KneeDragger_c69

    KneeDragger_c69 Well-Known Member

    Nice work there... :flag:
     
  19. turner38

    turner38 Well-Known Member

    The better you seal the box and tubing the more power it makes. Any air leak is a pressure leak.

    Three in square is plenty, that is nine square inches of flow window. You need roughly a 3.38 round tube to get the same flow window. That is much bigger than the point of restriction on the SV, if you can keep it that size all the way...
     
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  20. tgold

    tgold Well-Known Member

    I'd try to source ram air duct to have a smooth inner diameter. That flex tubing is terrible for laminar air flow.

    In this case, being ribbed will not bring pleasure.
     

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