I use these devices to do tool offsets and setting X0, Y0 and Z https://www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/pro-touch-off-gage/ https://www.haimer-usa.com/products.../universal-3d-sensor/universal-3d-sensor.html I usually do tool offsets off the back off my vise using the Edge Technology 4" guage, then load up the 3D sensor and touch off the same location but with a 2-3-4 block using the 4" side, set the operator position screen to zero, then touch off the 3D sensor to whatever work coordinate Z0 is in your CAM file (top of stock, top of parallels, etc), the delta value in the operator position screen gets inputted in my G54 (or whatever work coordinate your working in) Z value. The 3D sensor is also used for doing part zero set for X0 and Y0. Outside of using a probe these 2 devices make it pretty easy. Edit: Both devices also allow for over travel to some degree so you won't go burying your endmill if you make a wrong move or have your travel increment set wrong
I set a dial indicator in a tool holder and dropped a 2-3-4 block and a .010 feeler gauge on the table and set a zero on the dial indicator and machine. I touched the tools off the block via the feeler gauge. Touched off the fixed vise jaw step for the work offset and Bob's your uncle without the need to subtract the .010 from the tool offset. I'll put a probe and setter on the machine soon enough. I can manage for now and this will force me to use those types of tools and mechanisms and not rely fully on the controller and electronics.
I also think I am going to force myself to convert to working in metreek. The controller can be set to imperial but I might as well do like the French and surrender.
I’m coming around to metric. The math is way easier . Drawing and programming is easier with metric when you have to do the math. My only problem is after using imperial for so long I can visualize and sorta see in my mind how much .050 is or how long 10.100 is. metric is much harder for me to sorta visualize the numbers if that makes any sense .
What finally got me to stop converting back to imperial was doing little things at home on my manual mill. I’d be in a hurry and have to take time to convert . Finally I was like WTF my DRO will do metric . I’ve slowly started doing it at work now. Prob 50% of our customer prints are in metric . So now I try to just keep them metric when I program or have to redraw them in CAD/CAM because the customer either doesn’t have or can’t supply a solid model or a DXF/DWG. The hard part now is slowly getting my inspection dept switched over or at the least set up to inspect with metric tools. They still want to convert and check parts which adds another chance to fuck up since they have to do the math.
She is a night and day better machine that my little BF20L conversion. Way more grunt and the surface finish is way better. Just a simple test piece but she came out dead on the money dimension wise.
Want to make a little side $? I have a couple pieces that need to be machined, just 7075 alum, I have the stock already. It’s for Joes fz and my regular guy is out of the country until the new year and I’m too busy to go into one of our plants and do it myself. It’s ptrtty simple piece (2) and an evolution of what I already have done. Just came up with a bit better design and idea
You bet.. That's one of the very reasons I started getting into this was to make parts for racers who couldn't get a shop to do it either for time or cost reasons. I don't need to make a living doing it and like to help out fellow racers.
Today's project. I needed a tool length setter for the new machine. Soft jaws for the second op. I missed the alignment a bit using the wiggler to pick up the second work offset. A lite press fit on the indicator. Fun little project.
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