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readiness for emissions

Discussion in 'Tech' started by pfhenry, Sep 12, 2019.

  1. pfhenry

    pfhenry Well-Known Member

  2. beathiswon

    beathiswon Well-Known Member

    Hah, just went through this with my neighbors Toyota PU. It's called resetting the "Drive Cycle". Found a guy on YouTube with this method...… We warmed up his cold engine until it reached full operating temperature. Then while in Neutral revved the engine to a steady 3K rpm (give or take 200 rpm) and held for 3 mins. Done. Now there is no guarantee this works for every car but a pretty easy fix to attempt. Get yourself an OBD code reader for doing this (Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc sell them for under $30) which will tell you if your car is ready for a smog and can also be used to read fault codes for future repairs. Almost every car made since 1997 has a plug for this tool usually under the dash and easiy to reach. Plenty of other, but longer, and more complicated videos for "Drive Cycle" on YouTube but try this first. By the way my neighbors car had the battery disconnected 1 1/2 years ago and several thousand miles of driving and still didn't reset and pass smog until we did this.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  3. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    What test do you want it to run or need it to pass? Like outlined in that link, certain criteria are needed to be met. If you know what test he failed you on you can just run through the list and get it passed faster by meeting those needs, assuming there is no issues found by the ECM. Each monitor is different so you really need to know what one is failing or hasn't run yet to start. Stuff like EVAP monitors for us, never run in winter (minimum temp is like 40*F). Once spring hits we get flooded with EVAP failures and that's when the temp start jumping up past 40* and the monitors start to run again. They are all different with different requirements, driving down the highway may not suffice for all those requirements even. Definitely don't disconnect or let your battery run down, that starts over any test. Run it a few days like normal, then have it checked by a shop and see what test have not completed and go from there. Its not always an easy thing, glad we dont have that BS around here.



    https://www.obdautodoctor.com/scantool-garage/obd-readiness-monitors-explained
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  4. bored&stroked

    bored&stroked Disclaimer: Can't spell

    Every car is different. Porsche, I've driven the dam things 60-70 miles and still have a couple lamps blinking not ready. Other cars I can start, drive the 6 miles to the testing station, and everything except evap is ready [and your allowed a single lamp not ready, 2 or more and you fail] .

    Usually, its a heat cycle that does it. Drive a little freeway and side street, let sit till cold, start it up and do it over again.
     
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  5. Phl218

    Phl218 .

    Old trick back in Germany for TÜV inspection was to do a half hour full blast on the Autobahn, right before... seems to have done it more that it should have
     
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  6. racepro171

    racepro171 to finish first, first you must finish!

    just plug in a charger when not using truck.
     
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  7. pfhenry

    pfhenry Well-Known Member

    rsz_120190915_185006.jpg thanks guys... i do keep it on the charger over night ...
    the real issue is all of my gauges go out for weeks at a time so i don't know if thats going to be a detectable issue or not.

    no codes which is good i guess.

    had no idea the code reader could check for readiness(didn't know what that was until i failed)

    has a big fat check after i ran the I/M but EVAP has an X... i guess i should try to get all green checks before i take it back.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
  8. racepro171

    racepro171 to finish first, first you must finish!

    evap fail is most often gas cap, provided that you lines are in good condition and not rusted out
     
  9. _indy

    _indy Well-Known Member

    Yes it will work unless you have a major issue going on.

    Moved to Arizona, same crap. Failed the test, have to take the car to have it tuned up and inspected at a shop. Can't DIY.
    SO I did, took it back and failed.

    Watched a old VW bug blowing smoke pass. Asked WTF I fail that passed.
    Guy said three things.
    1. The tune up you had done showed you tried, note the box checked saying anything further will cost over $250 so you get a pass.
    2. The bug had such a pass and needs a rebuild.
    3. Since your car isn't that old, and you drove straight here, drive around for 30 minutes to heat up the catalytic converter so it will do it's job. I did and the car passed emissions doing nothing but warming the car up.
     
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  10. bored&stroked

    bored&stroked Disclaimer: Can't spell

    Evap won't reset unless the ambiant air temp gets low enough. That's why your allowed a single lamp not reporting ready, here in AZ the evap might not reset for 8 months. Your showing 6 out of 7 lamps ready, it'll pass.
     
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  11. pfhenry

    pfhenry Well-Known Member

    dude said my gauges being completely off will make it fail when I went back today..
    i guess i'll take the gauges out for a bit then reconnect to see if that helps...
    that or pony up to get gauges serviced
     
  12. pfhenry

    pfhenry Well-Known Member

    Went to Hamp's speedometer repair today and got my entire cluster serviced for 2 fiddy. Great family business in Alpharetta .
     
  13. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    Well that would eliminate about 50% of the cars on the road around here then. :D
     

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