Any car paint experts?

let me know when you're in the market. I'll probably sell mine.

 

you can still wash every week, just not have to polish as many times.

 

I only do it once a year now. How much less could I possibly need to do it.

 

and for those that don't want to cermaic coat, try CarPro Hydro2

https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-hydro2-silica-sealant.html

dilute first, then wash your car, spray on when wet and wash off. Amazing stuff.

 

0.5 /year

 

Here's what the high performance beetle has taught me about Xpel wrap. Nothing stays on it. Any type of protectant you apply to it is gone after a day in the sun.

 

unfortunately, i can't do wraps . i get the reasoning, but it's a giant sticker and I can always see where it's been installed. I'll take the rock chips, and then respray.

 

Never use the Ganges River as an analogue unless you are taking about Toxic Cesspools

 

tis true...in it's former life, it was a thing of beauty.

 

All this crazy talk makes me want to park the thing down the street overnight with the keys in the ignition.

I got a Mother's kit with claybar and its doing nothing to knock down the spots.

 

These Porter Cable things are $120 at Amazon. Realistically, I'll never use one of these again. Can I just get one at HF? https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compact-palm-polisher-69487.html or https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-62861.html

 

I'd suggest just paying somebody who knows what their doing. If all you want is a paint correction, it'd probably set you back the same to pay a professional as it would to buy entry-level tools to do it yourself, and you may not like the results. Not to mention we're talking a full-day job if you want it done right.

 

The only thing I use Xpel (or any other clear film) on is the headlights. Does wonders to protect the plastic from rock chips that accelerate the process of degrading the UV coating.

I've had Xpel Ultimate pre-cut film on the headlights of my current 2015 F150 since new and they look like they just rolled off the assembly line after 60K+ miles.

 

If you're not willing to put in the little bit of money for proper equipment, and then spend 10 hours in the garage doing the work.... just pay to have someone do it. And then take care of it properly in the future.

You also need a DA polisher. That second one in the hands of a noob is really dangerous.

 

While I won't take his stance on the quality of the tool I will say don't attempt your first run with a rotary machine. You stand a much higher chance of building too much heat and damaging the paint as well and burning through on sharp edges. Go with a dual action long throw orbital first and then if you feel your skills are good enough get a rotary. Having said that the DA orbitals are so good these days there isn't much need for a rotary only machine.

These are usually on the shelf of your local Autozone along with pads and compound. It's not a wallet killer for the guy who isn't making a living with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10813STDCRD-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B009UKUUWE

 

that's going help take out contaminants out of your paint, but will not level the paint. You'll probably need a paint correction as said.

I spent about 18 hours messing with my car over a weekend, and still was not happy with the results. But in a masochist way, I did enjoy the process. If you're not into it, then just live with it, or have someone else do it.

 

You can always trade it for one with fresh new paint and a payment book.

 

he does have Ferraris, not sure if it's yeller though

 

By chance did you take mil readings before and after? Just curious with etching that bad and correcting that GOOD if you're down to next to nothing CC wise.

 

BTW I know that feeling. After seeing swirls in my paint with ceramic, told my buddy i'm just going to wrap it pink and not GAF