Seems with all the pads lately I have to take the ears to the belt sander to remove some material so they slide in the caliper bracket. Most are really tight out of the box and that's with replacing the stainless shims and wire brushing the bracket .
I've always heard this but rarely done it on anything unless the rotors were trashed. I scuff both rotor faces, slap in new pads and I've never had a problem. Car, truck, motorcycle, everything. Not saying it's the "right" way but it's always worked for me. And that includes before I learned about bedding in pads
Cars are cast iron and will not seat properly and preform if you don't turn, ask any brake mechanic. Motorcycles are steel with sintered pads totally different thing. By the way my last job was working for Wilwood eng.
So I recently put the 6’s on the front and 3’s on the rear of my Jeep. I’m VERY impressed with them. I don’t care about pad life as I know those rotors kill pads but towing a boat is like it was stopping normally. Highly recommend them. Think I paid 350 or so for pads n rotors off Amazon. I have kind of an odd set up on my Jeep with dodge 1 ton calipers in the front / rear with machined adapters but even with bigger brakes and good Hawk pads I could never get the fronts to barely chirp when doing hard stops. That’s with braided lines, good fluid bled properly etc. With these it’s night and day just swapping pads n rotors. Just an FYI : They do seem to take a bit more than any pads I’ve had to bed in, even doing a so,what aggressive bed in. I did the front n rear separate days and one thing I learned is they seem to like aggressive start stop bed in with a few heat cycles.
Agree with this 100%. I always clean the pins very well with a breads wire wheel and inside with brass rotary brush in a drill (then clean very very well). Use the right amount good lube and new seals (or whatever the official name is for the rubber boots) and that should keep you pedal from pulsing which is due to changes in friction and not warping. Won’t be looking forward to replacing these in the wife’s car. She might as well just drive with the throttle wide open and use a kill switch to slow down. Went through $1700 in tires in 20k miles, if she gets 30 out of brakes I’ll be happy. Mind you her heavy as hell SUV came with 21” summer tires and not all seasons, wtf?
Curious, why would a scotcbrite wheel on a die grinder work to take off old pad material? I’ve never tried to change brands of pads without new rotors and never had rotors turned as cost of rotors doesn’t seem to make it an option worth pursuing.
Yeah scotchbrite is good idea for steel rotors. Not to many people turn rotors now days, new ones are fairly cheap.
Get them dude you will not be disappointed. I have PowerStop truck and tow brakes on my Tundra and Jeep GC, I agree with canadian bacon when he said that they take a little to brake in but after that 100x better braking than stock!!!
I just installed the PowerStops. It took about 90 minutes with several breaks for texting, music selection, etc. Nice and smooth, with noticeably more stopping power. It's almost weird for the truck not to shake me to pieces every time I touch the pedal.
My F350 dually is due for new brakes after only 60,000 miles. Of course this has been almost all at 30,000 lbs GCWR. The stockers have never given me any trouble but I'd like to get more life. What's the BEEB got? PS, the rotors look fine but now I'm getting concerned....
How apropos is this discussion. This past Friday, heading up to races, trailer in tow, and just before getting on the highway, I heard an interesting noise coming from the rear as I applied the brakes. Turned around and went back home to have a look. It wasn't the guide pins this time, but rather the pistons. Maybe I haven't been doing this long enough, but I haven't seen calipers do this before: Left side: Right side: .
Whatever that rubber cap is, I bet, it holds chloride under it. If the new calipers have those, I’d remove them, before installation.
Holy shit, I never saw any thing like that before, that has to be result of long exposure to moisture, heat, road salt...(your piston boot/s being compromised) to get to that point!?
Phenolic pistons, overheated or not clamping on a flat pad surface (they can crack pretty easily). If you're not careful pushing them back in on a brake service you can chip the edges off with not too much force, they don't fall apart for no reason.
