EGR - delete v. disable?

Ok - I’m learning that asking about EGR removal on my LLY Duramax is like asking which oil or which tires for a race bike. Information overload!

That said in my quest for information, I came across Kennedy Diesel out of Wisconsin that does “EGR Disable” over delete. The explanation seems legit, but that is from the source.

It’s also considerably more cost , but it seems to be a bigger return and less blocking or cutting stuff off the motor.

FYI, I intend to be addressing the the turbo inlet as well as exhaust, likely S&B inlet, MBRP uppipe/downpipe and 4” exhaust.

Soooo, I would really appreciate any real world input from anyone with experience with the “EGR Disable”.

Thanks
Mark

 

The disable costs more? That doesn't really sound right logically? I'd assume disabling it is just programming in the ECU to allow it to think it's functioning properly but not, and keeping all the crap where it is. The up side is it looks stock if someone you don't want under the hood sees it, the down side, what if the EGR cooler leaks or any other of the components?

The delete is doing the same with some programming, but removing all the stuff that system needs to function.

 

My understanding is ECU reflashed for “disable” however it also comes with 2 tunes. 1 towing/econ and the other 1 performance. Each tune is mated with other modifications (exhaust etc).

As far as cost, that is my question as I’m very ignorant on this diesel stuff.

My understanding is that Kennedy has been around for some time and are a reputable shop, but I’m looking for some real world input/feedback (cue rd49 ) on what they offer.

 

I have mine disabled in the tune on my CRD Grand Cherokee. It’s all there, it just doesn’t open to let gases back into intake.

That, plus DPF delete and economy time was well worth the $700.

 

Thanks for info, and just to clarify - you had Kennedy do the tune?

 

The biggest issue is the heat cycling of the EGR cooler and cracks allowing coolant into the exhaust stream. An engine rebreathing its exhaust is not a detriment in it’s self. The 900* exhaust on one side and 200* coolant on the other. The thin wall coolers just cant stay together. This lets coolant into the soot flow and that makes a black muddy cake mix that dries like concrete. I wouldn’t trust a disable tune only option.

 

I had that happen on my semi-truck and it fooked everything downstream, DPF, sensors, etc. And, indeed, it was concrete.