I'm assuming you have to be a dealer to register and purchase? Auction format, payment due at end of auction oe when you pick up? What is the pickup process? Trying to see how difficult/understand the logistics of haveing someone purchase a car via Copart and me picking up.
Copart formerly was dealer-only, meaning a buyer had to have a dealer privilege license to be able to bid. A few years ago that requirement was dropped, at least in NC it was. I'm not sure if that policy is nationwide. Your local Copart website should state their policies.
+1 - I'd like to understand too Signed up for Crashed Toys which seems to be copart Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
So....any person can register and purchase for a NC Copart location? That'd be awesome since the car I want is in the China Grove Copart location.
That's the one I visited, and the woman I spoke to told me about the website and the policy. This was shortly after I noticed the sign saying they were "Open to the Public." What are you looking at?
Found a very nice Lexus ES350 at a great price but it doesn't have a few features I want. If I can buy a wrecked car from Copart for under a grand, I should be able to swap everything in a weekend and sell the car from Copart to recoup most of my money and the stock items from the Lexus I'm buying. Resulting in low mile ES daily driver at a bargain price with all the options I want.
Copart are crooked fuckers, so watch yourself and don’t get your hopes up in actually coming home with it, if you have the winning bid.
I recently bought a bike from them. Besides the fact their fees doubled the price the starter switch wire had been cut clean and the one coil had been removed from a bike that was obviously running and complete when wrecked. I think this was sabotage to reduce the sell price for one of the employees friends. I've heard of this type of thing from some of the big youtubers that buy copart - a plug wire loose, a disconnected o2 sensor, pulled fuse, etc. I would buy through them again, just do your research on the fees and assume the worst for condition even if you inspect. I will say some of the prices seem ridiculous too. I've seen some decent deals then some 10 yo econoboxes sell for almost 80% of retail even with airbag deployment. No rhyme or reason I have found. Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
I know someone who was in corporate, but, could no longer handle their dishonest business dealings. Some of what he told me was unreal. Likewise, I know a regular buyer whom they’ve repeatedly screwed out of vehicles they’ve won, when the vehicles didn’t bring the money they expected. Or, he’d be the winning bidder, but, he’d find they’d given the vehicles to one of their “preferred” bidders, when he’d go to finalize his purchases.
There is a table in the FAQ section or somewhere that gives the breakdown of what you can buy by state. Some states allow private individuals to buy clean title only, some salvage only, and some your SOL. I think Crashed Toys is it's own thing, and RideSafely is a 'Broker' where you can buy anything for double the fees. I've had the insurance hold back a vehicle because it didn't get as much money as they wanted. Eventually they relented and sold to us when second round of bidding was lower than the first. I haven't been completely screwed yet after maybe 4-8 vehicles. The fees are killer though, and those places must be swimming in money.
I have also read that the fees are very expensive. You need to be very careful that the damaged vehicle wasn't previously purchased at auction, a few replacement panels bolted on to hide extensive damage and then relisted. Only buy when an insurance company is the seller. Ive seen on some youtube rebuild channels mention to use Autoauctions.io (not free, $20 a month) t0 research before buying, it keeps records of previous auctions and the photos (but probably dont need to do this if buying direct from the insurance company). Definitely go see the car in person before bidding.
Be very careful with any used auto purchase from an auction unless you have the ability to verify history. Lots of disasters and floods recently and unfortunately a lot of those vehicles will get washed titles and end up at auction.
Literally, my plan is to buy the car and take out some of the interior pieces I need, then take the remainder to pull-a-part and recoup as much as I can. Right now, the car I'm looking at has no reserve that I can see and has 0 bids. So hoping for less than a grand OTD? I have no idea what to expect.
fees at a minimum are about $350 IIRC and like must be picked up in 2 days or they charge a storage fee. Also, if you have the right to buy, you still need to setup an account. Send your photo ID in. And depending on how much you want to spend be approved for a spending limit. Which all takes some time to setup
You do the basic setup online in a few minutes and it gives you decent base spending limit for the car you're looking at.
