Here's one of a few videos available showing you how. Note: I didn't watch the whole videos to check if everything was done properly but this gives you an idea of what needs to be done. YouTube videos can be very helpful but I've seen many that are downright scary with bad info so if you don't have a manual, get one. The manual will give you proper specs for everything. If you plan on doing your own work a manual will save you many headaches and $$$ in the long run.
i saw that video, but as the comments section said, "DID NOT SHOW HOW TO DO THE VALVE CLEARANCE AT ALL DURING THE VIDEO" so that's why I was asking.
Sorry, I guess that wasn't too helpful then. Take my advice about the manual though and that will give you the instructions and check out a few videos of just about any inline sports bike and some will show how to properly measure the clearances with a feeler gauge and tips on removing the valve buckets & shims. It's not super difficult, just takes some patience. Stay away from chisels and hammers. Set aside a day for your first time.
Have you done any at all? Just have to stick a feeler gauge between the cam lobe (the base circle) and top of the valve bucket. Rotate the engine around to do the others. Chances are you wont have to adjust unless you have a million miles on it. Haven't done that specific engine but they are all quite similar. Dive in and if you have questions take pictures and ask questions. Service manual would walk you through it step by step as well.
haven't really done anything internal all these years. I do basic maintenance stuff. Swapped out forks, shocks, brakes, etc. Didn't seem terrible to do but knowing me, I have to times everything x4 in length of time. So 1 day job, easily 4 days for me.
if you're asking then it's over your skill level. not trying to be a dick. just honest. I'd consider taking it to someone reliable.
Yep the only way to learn is to do it. I mean its not as involved and complicated as pulling off hose clamps to replace coolant with water wetter........but its a start.
If I can do this to a gixxer with twice the cylinders you should be fine too. Last time around I had to swap a couple. You'll have to get a service manual with the spec chart. They already have the math figured out. Only caveat is if you are familiar with using a feeler gauge. Kind of a learned skill, not complicated but you'll see. I learned on small block Chevies gapping points and plugs and lifters
A couple of hints: 1. If it's your first time you won't know what's in there. If you have to pull the cam shaft to swap one you might as well pull all of them in that bank and take take note of what is each hole. Keep them in order! Take notes! 2. Mic each shim. The sizes on each are not always accurate. PS use a decent good micrometer. 3. Consider buying a batch of shims when they come up for sale on the forum. Buying individual shims sucks and takes extra time. Mic these as well and sort accordingly. 4. I try to "shade" to the looser side of the spec. May not be the best for power but this is not my favorite job....you'll see. 5. The worst part...measure again when you're done and be prepared to do it again! PS, I miss shim over bucket designs.
I found it helpful to draw each cylinder and number/label the intake and exhaust valves. As you use the feeler gauge you write down the clearance so you can save the hassle of trying to remember which is which and where you took the measurement. It also helps for when you check them again you'll have a baseline to see what has happened. I removed the gas tank to give the most access. Even if it wast' your first time doing this I would measure all the valves then rotate the engine a few times and remeasure again. Plan on it taking a whole day start to finish.
