Wheel Balancing Stand

I'm trying to figure out exactly what you're questioning. The fact that I sealed the spokes to make it tubeless or that the bead may not be set perfectly all of the way around, thus making it hard to balance because they will be out of round?

 

The bead seating area on tubeless wheels are designed to hold the tire in place with no internal support. Tube type wheels are designed to use a tube or a rim lock to secure the bead to the rim. Therefore, running tubeless tires on a tube type rim can be a concern that the bead will unseat without something holding it in place.

 

Very well put and thank you. To add, the rim lock is there to prevent the tire from turning on the rim and possibly tearing the valve stem out of the tube during extreme use. And if you look at a cross section drawing of both a tube type rim and tubeless rim you will see a dramatic difference between them.

 

stick on or spoke secured type?

 

There are plenty of tubeless rims that spin faster or slower than the tire(s) without dire consequences just about every race weekend. I wouldnt think that risk is any higher on tubed type since they tend to have serrated beads. Now at lower tire pressures I would agree there is a lil more risk.

 

Stick on. I've ridden it pretty aggressively on the street for a couple hundred miles and haven't lost any air pressure. I will mark the tire and rim before my next ride and see if they spin any. The rim doesn't have a hole for rim lock.

 

It's not so much the spin that can be the issue; rather it's the bead popping off the seating surface during hard cornering or lateral flex. For example, dirt bike tires on tube rims can be seated at ~20 psi, whereas tubeless tires on tubeless rims might take up to 80 psi to seat to overcome the bead locking features on the rim.

Basically, if you run a tube type tire on a tube type rim without a tube, and you run it at low pressures, there is a chance that the tire bead could fold off of the rim seating area. Just something to look out for.

 

Serrated beads are not the fix here. The shape of the beading area of the tubeless tire is engineered to match with the bead seat area of the tubeless rim. Simply a tube type rim or tire doesn't have the same shape.

 

They're 17" supermoto wheels. I'm running Dunlop Q3+ on them now, so they're not tubed tires. The bead seemed to set really well. Although I do recall it taking upwards of 40-50 psi to get them to seat.

 

Frickin' beautiful!
Commercially available?

 

I make them.

 

This with the RM Racing spacer cones.

 

I have been looking for a set of these for years. PM on the way!

 

I can't believe so many of you have issues with the HF one. the only thing I had to change on mine was the set screws. you can buy a 1/2" dia cold roll rod anywhere if it's bent. mine is straight as an arrow. (i've rolled it on a milled table where machinist check parts. it's flat as fuck.

these guys sell K&L balancers and truing stands. if you want what a pro would use.
https://www.redlinestands.com/catal...nt-c-327_331/benchtop-balancers-c-327_331_95/

 

Mine has been good too. Balanced lots of wheels for myself and friends, and they've always balanced well. Had about 4 that haven't needed any balancing too.

 

you know something I found impressive, some guy brought in a set of wheel to our shop that he had someone else balance on a harbor freight bubble balancer. and they were dead nuts balanced. I even checked it on our K&L MC200 computer balancer.

 

Everybody always thinks "Harbor Freight" automatically means "bad", but that's really not the case. "Harbor Freight" just means "cheap", which in the case of metrology translates to "untrustworthy".

My daily-driver 0-150mm digital caliper is a Harbor Freight set. It's dead-nuts on par with a much more expensive (20x) Mitutoyo caliper, down to the same .01mm reading... until I open the HF caliper beyond 85 or 90mm, at which point it sometimes picks up an extra 5mm and insists on reading 5mm high even if I close it all the way back down. Still always shows exactly 5.00 at closed when that happens, though - never 4.87 or 5.04.

Point is, you can get great results out of HF stuff.. just don't trust it to never fuck up on you.

 

we are talking about a tire balancer here. most people wouldn't know if a tire is out 1/2 an ounce or 3 out of balance. I proved it to people all the time when I worked at a dealership. I had one guy swear his bike had a shimmy from a tire being out of balance. I checked it and it was fine. so I stuck the same amount of weights in the same spot and he said it rides great now.
but my point is, yeah I wouldn't buy a set of their calipers and expect mitutoyo or starrett quality or accuracy. but that static balancer is fine.