Toy hauler towing experience with a 1500

I bought a regular 7x18 (3ft V) cargo trailer and had a fold out bed added. I put in led lights, small power inverter, laminate floor, and some cabinets/shelves to make it livable. We park near the washrooms and bring a camp stove, bbq, plastic tables, and folding chairs. It’s not as nice as a proper toy hauler but it worked for us for 4 years and cost much less than an actual toy hauler. With the bed we didn’t have to unload anything to go to sleep and it was long enough that there was room in front of the bikes for a mattress for the kids. There was enough room that with it unloaded, if there was bad weather we could all sit inside comfortably and stay dry and warm. I towed it with a 3/4t diesel but now I’m downgrading to a 1/2t and a 7x10. I’m not going to be driving across the country racing and don’t need that much truck or the payments.

 

It all depends on how big a toy hauler you purchase. We pull with a 15 model 1500 and it does great pulling a 8’x22’ enclosed that weighs 7500# or so loaded. Get 9-12 MPG depending on wind and grade. Mine is a 6.2 truck though with the eight speed though.

I looked at buying a Diesel when I bought my truck. I hate diesels though and just couldn’t justify it.

Honestly if you are going to buy anything over 24-26’ and 8ooo# you’ll need a bigger truck.

 

I didn’t realize this was for more than you.

Smaller units like these might work, though I know nothing of them.
https://www.riversidervs.net/mt-mckinley-toy-haulers/

http://www.miragetrailers.com/rv-toy-hauler-travel-trailers.html

https://dunesport.com/toy-hauler/build/bumper-pull

http://www.xplorcampers.com/xth-toy-hauler-12-.html

https://www.livinlite.com/products/quicksilver-toy-haulers/

I’m sure, there are more options out there. But, unless you’re getting into a full-on custom build (like Featherlite, inTech, ATC, and others), you’re going to be subject to the same shortfalls the entire RV industry has with quality. They are all built from the same components, just in different buildings.

“Work and Play” brand used to be based on enclosed trailers, but, that brand has been morphed into more of a travel trailer-style of build.

If you buy one without a generator, you’ll be limited to bringing one of at least 3500W or having to use shore power. That’s a big deal, should you ever use it for dispersed camping and family fun. If you DO buy one with a generator, make sure it’s integrated into the unit, like an Onan (usually ~$4K upcharge). The crappy add-on generator setups on racks over the LP tanks are just that, crap.

 

Sierras and Silverados are the exact same truck minus badging and some creature comforts. EXACTLY the same truck. Same assembly line, same internal workings, same errything.

 

Well, the GMC trucks do cost a few grand more....
Guess it is just for Snob appeal!
LOL

 

I bought a 31'(box) Coachmen TH this spring and tow it with my 2019 Ram 1500. It has plenty of power and brakes for it. Havent taken it through mountains but I'm sure it would get the job done. I'm actually shocked out how decently it tows this trailer.

My enemy is crosswinds, if it's like 10mph than it's fine but I've towed it a couple times with strong gusts and it sucks which is going to put me in a 2500/3500 next year.

You could easily tow the 17 and probably even the 271 model.
http://www.coachmenrv.com/toy-haulers/freedom-express-blast

 

the great gmc/chevy debate. are they made by the same company and share some items? yes. are they exactly the same except badging? NO WAY. different body panels, body lines. different updated interior, and creature comforts. yes the gmc costs more but, they look, ride, and resell better than the cheby in my humble and biased opinion. loyal gmc owner since 1997. Ski

 

GCVWR is but one part of the equation, usually immaterial unless towing an idealized trailer and cargo. Gross vehicle weight rating and rear axle weight rating are ALMOST always the limiting factor.

 

If it were my money (and I'm much cheaper than you), I would just get a nice 21'-23' travel trailer and put the bikes in the back of your truck. I'm sure that you will be under your payload, although you might want air bags or helper springs.

Bikes and gas jugs in the back of the truck and the trailer on the end shouldn't over tax your truck. Everything else will go in the trailer.

 

He's only got 1435 lbs of payload. Putting an aux tank in the bed would mean that he might be able to pull the little red wagon from his childhood. And besides that, aux. tanks for gasoline are incredibly expensive, but the lack of payload is the killer in this instance.

GCVWR is almost a useless number for towing camping type trailers. He's going to run out of payload long before he approaches anywhere near the GCVWR. GCVWR is more of a factor when pulling flatbed utility type trailers where you can load the trailer with whatever you are hauling and move the load more towards the rear of the trailer if you are causing too much tongue or pin weight.

 

And you still have a 1/2 Ton truck with exactly the same payload rating as you started out with.....unless somewhere in that description, some suspension work was done by a certified upfitter and they replaced the GVWR and Payload sticker on the truck.

 

Not so much the rear axle rating, and if you exceed the GVWR of the truck, you have automatically exceed the payload rating. Here is the order in which the ratings go over....
1. Payload
2 GVWR.........these two are a tie because if you are over payload, you are over GVWR...and vice versa
3. RAWR
4. Tire load Capacity
5. GCVWR.......#4 and #5 are sometimes switched

 

Be happy you have a truck and not an SUV. My Land yacht has an 8500lb towing capacity but payload is like 800lbs. So essentially you can tow or have passengers... Not both

 

Just spent $3700 rebuilding the trans in my GMC Denali 6.2L.

After the shop pulled the trans they called and where like ‘what do you tow with this thing!?’

It’s an All aluminum 18ft enclosed. Plus 2-4 bikes and gear.

It’s been all over towing, but is my DD too. I like speed limit plus 5mph. Has 112k miles on it, 2012. Never had a problem other than cracked manifold on drivers side.

Shop said all plates were bad and 5-6 were ‘welded’ together. I only noticed it slipping about 2 miles from my house after a 1000 mile round trip. No warning lights, no high trans temps ever.

Was the original trans oil, but there are 10k viewpoints on how to deal with that. And I think manual says change at 100k with a lot of towing...what is a lot, lol?

 

Thanks man. I appreciate the research. I’m going to give those a look in a bit.

 

Was it the 6 or eight speed trans?

 

Only some of the body panels are different, just the ones that are shaped differently for cosmetic reasons. There is zero difference between the top of the line trim in either truck.
It is all the same parts and pieces, you just paid more because it has a GMC emblem.
If that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside more power to ya. Bet you own a Harley also...

 

I appreciate all the help/advice!

So after a little more talking with the wife, it turns out she doesn’t really care about a shower or multiple beds.She really only wants something that has a sink and toilet. A unit not having a shower is not a deal breaker. Plus, this “whatever I get” is really only going to the track. It doesn’t need to have the bells and whistle and be 25’ long. Basically it’s something to let her get out of the summer heat from time to time, and a place to lay the little guy down for naps/feeding.

I’m pretty grateful that she is all about this sport. She loves the sound, smell, and the atmosphere of it. In fact, it is her “pushing” me to get a toy hauler or now that I know she doesn’t care about a shower, a cargo trailer converted, so she can come to track with the baby.

So, because it doesn’t need to be 25+ feet long with multiple sleeping areas and a shower, I’ll have a little more easier of a time finding one(I hope).

It’s good to have options.

 

You just said what I said.