Small trailer tires...

yep. And i added to my post a moment ago..
why anyone would want less than D rating for ANY trailer, is beyond me... no, it's not the giant toyhauler thread, i get that, but my example has 4 wheels, not 2 that would be typical of a small trailer. You start getting upward of 2000lb PER TIRE real fast with only 2 tires

 

I routinely run 3300-3400lbs on the axle of my trailer. If I would’ve known I’d end up that heavy, I would’ve done a 6K pound axle. But, my situation illustrates how one can get heavy much quicker than they think.

Even at 80psi, I can see plenty of tire bulge and deflection in the side mirror and glad to have 10-plies.

 

If my trailer is maxed to its GVWR of 6500#, I'm barely at 65% of a D rated tire's max load capacity.
My typical usage prolly puts the trailer's loaded weight between 3000 and 4500. That's plenty of margin capacity with four Ds holding the road and my loads don't get beat to shit running on "less compliant to road irregularities" E tires.

Anyway, Amazon only has 1 D rated Maxxis in stock so, I ask again...
Who's got 'em?

 

Ive always had good luck buying tires thru Discount Tire Direct.

https://www.discounttire.com/tires/brands/maxxis-catalog?cat=trailer-tires

 

Spring axles beat cargo; not 2 extra tire plies.

Do a dealer search and have them check their distributor. My dealer gets them next day.

 

When ya'll are saying metal valve stems you're saying the bolt in style or? Because they make HP snap in rubber stems, you don't need the bolt in metal stems like a dump truck or tractor would run. Regular snap in stems are good to 65psi, the snap in HP stems 80 and then from there on full metal bolt in stems.

 

You think? Go ahead and put E tires on your car and tell me how you like the ride.

 

If they made them in 15" for my screamin' yello neon, I would.

 

Having had HP snappers blow out on my old 3500 while hauling a trailer, I'll stick with the bolt ins from now on.

 

Yep. Bolt-in.

The pull-thru, 65psi stems can still blow out.

I’ve got 10-plies on my truck. Yes. They’re a little more harsh than a 6-ply would be, but, they’re much more stable, have a deeper tread depth, and are more durable. I went from a factory 20” rim to an 18” rim and the ride is actually better.

 

An inch more of flexy sidewall will do that. Tires are part of any suspension equation.

 

Weird, never ever seen a stem failure that wasn't due to dry rotting or physically damaging it.

 

I’ve actually seen a few blow out on heavily loaded race car trailers. You know them....the guys who spend a shitload on their car, then, buy a cheap trailer, overload it, and drive 80mph to the track.

 

But, I went from a 6-ply to a 10-ply. According to you, anything 10-ply will ride like shit and beat the hell out of everything.

 

Thousands of miles of my toy hauler wheels and not a problem. I know many others that run higher rated tires than what the wheels are rated for. I can't recall ever seeing, or hearing about a wheel just imploding from failure because the tire was over inflated for what the wheel was rated for.

 

Yea i wondered that too. We have a 1/2 mile dirt oval and see a lot of good ol' boys going to the track saturday night like clock work and i laugh at some of the trailers. Should be triaxle at the very least but nope, two screamin' axles on a 30ft enclosed trailer.

 

Only if ya go high on psi and tire isnt loaded... 60 or 65 in a E rated tire, if loaded well below max rating, will bounce nicely.

 

I realize I am not the norm for the audience in this post, but going up to an E rated tire that takes 80 PSI...I still get no excessive bouncing when my trailer is empty. The one nice thing about having a Work n Play with a 6400lb empty weight...LOL

 

33F/30R is what I usually run in the pickup. The tread completely lays on the ground, with even wear and rotation at every oil change. BFG KO2 and very happy with them.

The trailer is usually at 50psi, with a partial load. Then, I bump them to 75psi, when I load it down. Maxxis 8008, FTW.

 

How about actual small trailer tires?

I have a little utility trailer that needs new tread, I had planned on just going to whatever trailer store carries these smaller tires pre-mounted on wheels and just buying 2 new ones that fit. It is not usually loaded heavy so not too concerned.

My actual question - it has small tires (14" maybe?), and I'd like to get larger ones but the fender would need to be altered/moved/removed. Any reason why I should run a fender vs. leaving it off? I don't have a welder so unable to move it up.