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Suspension and geometry gurus

Discussion in 'General' started by notbostrom, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. wsmc42

    wsmc42 Well-Known Member

    Sounds like you at least have a direction to work in. If you raise the rear more and like the feel of the bike in the corner but feel like the rear lifts under braking, try what Rob said. Sounds like the bike is pitching over center too much or too fast when you go to the brakes. Things you could try:
    Add preload to the front
    Change valving in front
    Raise fork oil level in front
    Go to the rear brake just before you squeeze the front brake lever. This can help settle the rear.
    Raise the front. You may need extended fork caps.
    I know it sounds like raising the front would put you right back where you were, but not necessarily. Swingarm angle will be different with bike higher and it should have more mechanical grip.
     
    TurboBlew likes this.
  2. turner38

    turner38 Well-Known Member

    Keep going in the same direction if that helped it. Just do it from the front, either take preload off the front or raise the forks in the clamps lowering the front.

    The front is too high at that moment and is causing what you are feeling. When it gets too low it will feel like it wants to fold in mid corner. A track with elevation changes will highlight what area you need to work on if you pay close attention. If it turns in better in downhill stuff where the front is loaded more than uphill stuff the front is too high and vice versa.
    Its all about balance, finding a combo that works for you everywhere.
    Of course then you start going faster and it all changes again....
     
  3. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck

    I don't know about the 05's but the previous gen liked the rear raised and the forks dropped. My 02 750 is shimmed up 10mm in the rear and forks are pulled up 10 above the triple.
     
  4. SpeedyE

    SpeedyE Experimental prototype, never meant for production

    That's what we did w/ my 1K....kept adjusting/changing heights, then re-adjusting heights, etc, for years. Chasing ghosts.
    Get that thing on a geometry machine, then it's Done.
     
    Jon Wilkens likes this.
  5. SpeedWerks Racing

    SpeedWerks Racing Well-Known Member

    IIRC working with Mike back in the day, the stock top clevis couldn't give enough ride height(shimmed to no threads left)
     
  6. JCW

    JCW Well-Known Member

    Are you blowing through front fork travel on brakes? This can cause the rear to lift.
    Might need to recheck the air gap and add fluid 5cc at a time.
    5mm at the rear shouldn’t make the rear lift that much.
     
    SpeedyE likes this.
  7. SpeedyE

    SpeedyE Experimental prototype, never meant for production

    I had a good/local suspensh guy refresh my forks in 2016, and he told me he put in less oil. I was just riding on the street, but was instantly on the stops and carrying the rear wheel, w/out trying/wanting to, every time I was on the f brake hard, regardless of speed. Oil level is what I would look at.
    I sold the bike a couple months later and told the guy to add oil to the forks.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2019
  8. JCW

    JCW Well-Known Member

    Raising the rear more directly addresses the running wide on throttle and the swingarm angle.
    It indirectly addresses the turn in issue.
     
  9. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    Yeah I bottom out entering the chicane at Daytona which makes for fun times
     
    SpeedyE likes this.
  10. jim weaver

    jim weaver Well-Known Member

    who are these gometry gurus ,how do you contact them .for a poor lost soul in the wilderness.
     
  11. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Too low. It’s a weeble. Raise both ends.
     
    wsmc42 likes this.
  12. Mot Okstef

    Mot Okstef Scrolling all day long on RRW.com

    So even though it may wobble it won't fall down? :D
     
  13. Mot Okstef

    Mot Okstef Scrolling all day long on RRW.com

    There are two I have worked with personally and would definitely recommend.

    https://www.thermosman.com

    http://gmdatl.com/index.html

    GMD Computrack has other locations around the country too.

    There are others out there too and I'm sure the beeb will chime in with their info and experiences. :cool:
     
  14. stangmx13

    stangmx13 Well-Known Member

    a great suspension tuner should have base-setup numbers for your bike. spring rates, fork ride-height, shock length, chain length, etc. they have probably worked directly with a racer on that bike to optimize it all. that experience is a big part of what makes them "great".

    if a tuner gives u a funny look when u ask for what shock length works best for your spring and your tires, Id take my $$ elsewhere.
     
    SpeedyE likes this.
  15. stk0308

    stk0308 Well-Known Member

    If your close to St Louis I'd recommend Velocity Calibrations http://www.velocitycalibrations.com/ . They have a Scheibner CMS that can measure up the frame and tell you if it's out of line, then help you set up the bike.
     
    Mot Okstef likes this.
  16. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck

    Is that when they started needing the fork extenders ?
     
  17. ruckusracing

    ruckusracing Well-Known Member

    Before that, I was running extended forks in my 2001 GSXR 600 in 2001
     
    SpeedyE likes this.
  18. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    06 I think started with longer caps.
    On 05 forks can be extended internally. I had 05 750 and if I remember I had spacer under clevis and +5 on shock. Forks also around +5.
    One of my favor bikes, good handling.
     
    SpeedyE likes this.
  19. This is what I remember as well.
     
  20. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck

    When I bought the 02 750 it was set up as it is now. I stupidly put it all back to stock as I went thru the bike then after the first weekend at the track I ended up going back to the set up it had when I bought it.
     
    SpeedyE likes this.

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