Flipping the axle to going in from the right (brake) side vs. the left (clutch side. What are the benefits? Other than getting the axle to slide into the brake caliper holder (for those that dont have it bolted or welded together) first, I thought I heard somewhere that it aids in not binding up the wheel when torqued down. Any truth to that or other benefits?
First off, get a captured caliper bracket and then cuss yourself out for not doing it sooner. Second, on the 06-16 R6, axle direction does not matter nearly as much as it does on bikes with "conventional" axle blocks like the 17+ R6 (and just about every other 600 and 1000). On bikes with axle blocks, I like to flip them so that you are torquing the axle nut towards the adjusters rather than away. I also use a rag between the chain and sprocket to keep everything snug on the blocks while torquing. I've seen people jam screwdrivers or wrenches in there, but I don't see any reason for metal on metal when a rag does the trick.
I have the captured caliper bracket (have for a few yrs now, and yes I cursed myself for not doing it sooner). I have used screwdrivers so thanks for the rag tip and the info @metricdevilmoto !!
You don't really need to load the sprocket and chain on the previous gen R6 because of how the assembly is captured, but I guess it can't hurt. We always measure the axle bracket from swing arm to adjuster with one of those Snap On metal pocket rulers to make sure we're square.
I'm just here to say that having two bikes, one with a captive caliper and one with a full FF quick change setup, that having the captive caliper and captive wheel spacers is about 80% of the awesomeness of having the full change kit. Every time I pull the wheel with the bike that has the captive caliper setup, I ask myself why I didn't get that done sooner.
on the cheap... not wanting a bunch of fancy bits or spend ANY money, the advantage to putting the axle in from the right side vs from the left, is it is SOO much easier sliding the rear wheel in when the brake caliper bracket is already lined up (as the axle is slid in a hair, holding it in place). You do need to flip the axle adjusters from right to left on teh back of the swingarm to do this.. don't forget to bevel the leading edge of the rear pads a bit. Rotor will glide in this way. step 2. Get the Fast Frank captive spacers that are simply held in with the rubber dust seal of the wheel and cush drive. Fukin brilliant, wheel will slide right in as you already have rear brake hanger set in place with the axle that is holding it. setp 3.. (ballin now playah).. get the Fast Frank rear brake bracket that is screwed to the adjuster. if you still want axle to come in from right side (you do), ya have to specify that when you order. i did without captive spacers till 5 or 6 years ago .. can't believe i waited that long. Couple years ago got FF bracket hold thing.. i'm telling ya, it's worth it . one day i may get the full quick change stuff.
I bought a set of these when, "can't remember his name" mentioned having a few pairs left after closing down his machine shop. Tyler was already out of racing, but I figured if Tyler ever comes back, I wanted to have a set.
Does FF still have these available for 2nd gens (2008 R6S in particular). Website lists 2006-2016 bikes, but not sure it would still work on mine?
If there's a kit he doesn't offer, pull off your caliper bracket and axle block (non indexed side) and send them in to him and he'll make it happen.
I just contacted Jimmy and Skip to see if they still make them or have any. I have used rods through the axle and swingarm before (I assume work the same). But have been doing the string method for a while too. If anyone else is interested in a set. LMK.
