Anyone know anything about binoculars?

The first number is magnification. The second number is objective lens diameter. Magnification is basically self-explanatory. Lens diameter has to do with light gathering capability. Typically, you find 7x50, 8x30 and 10x50.

The stability of the image depends on the stability of the holding platform. If you're using your hands, put your elbows on your chest, vice hangin' 'em out in the wind. This becomes more necessary with higher magnification, but even a 7x gives good imaging if it's stable. 8x is one better. When you go 10x and above, your image can bounce around quite a bit while tracking/panning. If you drink a pot of coffee in one sitting and go back for seconds, 10x prolly ain't gonna be your friend.

As far as lens diameter, how much light do you need? x30 is better suited to bright environments like on the water or in the desert, x50 works up to a point. When you get closer to looking in the sun's direction or other bright backgrounds, the added light can be troublesome for your eyes, particularly, if you're gonna be scannin' all day. I'd go with x30 diameter...it's also a smaller/lighter package.

Lens coatings make a difference in color and light filtering. Coatings suitable for on the water will not serve you in the woods and vice versa.

Adjustable diopters, the lenses closest to your eyes, allow for viewing without glasses by giving you the ability to dial in each eye's individual focus. A central focus thereafter allows you to finely focus the target based on range.
Cheap binos will have a central focus and, maybe, one adjustable diopter.

I would go with 8x30 for your intended use. Even while 7x50 is less magnification, the higher light transmission is tiring to the eyes. 10x30 will prove to be unstable for your use and image stabilization costs money.

The Steiner "river rat" linked is an excellent choice, and Steiner has a lifetime warranty - basically, no questions asked.

 

Some tips on usage...
- First and foremost, USE THE NECK STRAP!
- Focusing, keep both eyes open but cover one of the objectives. This will give you the sharpest focus for that eye. Closing an eye will pull the muscles in your face, distorting the focus in the open eye.
- One handing the binos. Hold the binos like your shovin' a burger in your mouth. You'll find this an efficient method of usage...good for long days.
- Lens cleaning. Use a micro-fiber. If you must use your shirt, do not rub vigorously, you will eventually scratch/dull the lenses. Tissue paper or any other type napkin is more apt to scratch than any other material and will leave lint behind. Lint especially likes to cling to the rubber eye cups.
More than likely, you will be provided with a micro-fiber cloth for this purpose. Obviously, if you have dirt/grit on the lens, don't grind it in - blow or carefully pick it off before using the cloth. When not in use, always put the lens covers in place.
- Get a dedicated hardcase. Softcases will not protect the diopters when packing/transporting. The diopters are the most fragile component. Second in fragility is the internal prism...don't drop 'em.

 

Depends which way you hold them. The people to ask about bino's are bird watchers. There are a lot of variables besides magnification and cost.

 

When I was enlisted, my main tool was a pair of 20x100s on a pedestal. We called 'em "Big Eyes". You could see satellites, the moons of Jupiter, the rings of Saturn and, if you were good, a ship's hull number just over the horizon. Looking at the moon was foolish, unless you engaged one of the progressively darkening filters.

They also acted as a cigarette lighter, as did some another piece of equipment during daylight hours.

 

They completely ignore the man's post and go into all this lol. Key words being "Compact" and "Under $100".

 

What? The last three words?
I pretty well answered everything else, including the title. If, after that, he thinks he can get a decent set of binos for $100 then, yes, I, and everyone else, wasted our breath.
Any other dual ocular optic devices that magnify an image are not usable binoculars any more than a Grom is a sportbike.

 

If you have an SLR, just get good glass for that.

 

For $8000 those fuckers better be X-ray!

 

Well, I suppose if you're going to buy a pair of binoculars you may as well get some that can record what you're viewing...

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_...inoculars&qid=1524505558&sort=price-desc-rank

 

Were you able to see Uranus?

 

fastfreedie has the right info. Typically with hunting the binocs are going to be bigger diameter (the second number) as you tend to (deer) hunt a lot at dawn and dusk and having the better light gathering capabilities of the larger objective lens is a big help. But with the bigger lens, it's more $$ and more weight.

the steiner 8x30 mil/marine is a solid choice if you can bump your price up a bit. I've had a set for about 25 years now and they are great. the ones I have are a light rubberized coating on the body so easy to hold, don't slip when wet, and just seem to be a good all around binocular. Kind of the VFR of the binoculars.

I recently bought my mom a set of Nikon Monarch 7 10x42 for bird watching and they are a big step up from the Steiner with regards to lens clarity. Has ED glass (similar to better quality camera lenses) and really works well without being crazy expensive.

Look for used ones and sales, it's not like the technology is changing much on them unless you want vibration reduction or something like that.

 

Thanks for the info everyone.
What about these?
http://www.vortexoptics.com/category/raptor_binoculars

 

I know lots about microscopes. You can take everything I say, and go completely opposite.

 

These guys have been pimping high end binocs. You seriously think they will be enthused at $119.00 models.

 

Ever see binocular soccer? Check it out on the yutetubes.

 

ROTFLMAO.

 

10x42 are a good overall size. I have a pair of Nikon Monarchs that I really like. The Bushnell Trophy's are decent too, and would probably be just fine for what you want, and aren't expensive.

 

My hunting buddy and I have several pair of binos across the board in brand, magnification, lens size, etc. We took them all out to a long field and went back and forth between them to see real-world differences.

Our mutual conclusion was that in daylight there was little difference between the inexpensive and expensive glass. When the light started to fade, both the lens quality and lens size started making a difference, and once it was nearly dark the big expensive glass was way better than the cheaper stuff.

Bang for the buck, both of us liked the Nikon Monarchs sized 8x42, but the 10x50 Pentax did great as well. The Leicas we also had seemed "crisper" as the light faded, but they were in the $1000 range and not really something that you'd buy on a lark. What was interesting was how little difference there was until the last couple minutes of light.

For me, I carry and use my Nikons 8x42 as a good compromise between cost, quality and size.

Go to Cabela's or Bass Pro and see what you like to use, and what fits your budget.

I also use something like this to keep them from bouncing around while walking, etc. :

https://www.cabelas.com/product/CAB...VCbXACh2HfQaEEAQYAiABEgLjHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Tell the truth : when you needed a pair of binoculars, you bought the Hubble telescope and told Livengood to make a copy & weld 'em together...