Not really for an RV but for a Mardis Gras Float(read trailer with roof, walls etc). The wife's krewe owns the float and have been laying a dozen extension cords around the thing for a couple years looped to a portable generator that sits on a platform out back. Since they are keeping it they want me to wire it up more permanently. Don't need much power. Running a few powered speakers and outlets for cell phones etc. The plan is to keep it powered with a portable generator but mount a permanent plug in like an RV, then I'll take it to a outdoor rated breaker panel inside the float. I'm a bit confused from the start. I'm reading mixed things on grounding. Should the breaker panel I use bond the ground to the neutral or not? I'll be using MC with shielded ground. Can I use the plastic receptacle boxes or should I stick with metal? Generator 30amp input panels have 4 posts. I though the 30 amp connection was 110 volts so what's up with the 4th post?
Have you considered running a power inverter . It would be silent on the float. A 3000 watt is not very expensive
Question: I'll be using MC with shielded ground. Can I use the plastic receptacle boxes or should I stick with metal? Suggestion: I see you say you're using an outdoor rated panel to mount. So, why not make it all "outdoor rated". MC cable on plastic boxes doesn't match up. Why not use Sealtight (liquid tight flexible metallic tube) to Bell Boxes (outdoor rated device boxes)? That's basically the flexible version of PVC pipe. Question: Generator 30amp input panels have 4 posts. I though the 30 amp connection was 110 volts so what's up with the 4th post? Suggestion: Take a picture of that. Not sure what these generators have. Or, see if has a NEMA plug number on it. (i.e.: L5-30 , L15-30)
Sealtite and Bell boxes? Never heard of them but ill take a look. I'm guessing that wont be found at home depot or lowes? The one generator input plug I found at Lowe's is a NEMA-3R. http://m.lowes.com/pd/Reliance-30-Amp-Generator-Power-Inlet-Box/3133095
Easy enough, you can get twist lock stuff for the connection at Home Depot/Lowes and save money over RV specific stuff. I'd run it separate to the genset - just do not pretend it's a car and ground it to the frame (had a trailer once where they added a second ac unit for me and a second circuit breaker box - a car dealer did it...). Plastic will work fine. Check your specific genset. Some have 220v 30 amp outlets (they're nice for wiring to a 220v 50amp rv setup just not able to send out the juice the rv can handle) and a 110v 30amp outlet. No need for the 220 in your situation. Even a cord from the 110v 20amp should work.
That specific plug that's in that attachment has 2-hot legs, 1-neutral and 1-ground. They may make some type splitter for that which can split it into two regular duplex receptacles. Those you may not find at the big box stores. Perhaps ebay or amazon though. All the other stuff i mentioned is all basic electrical material that is common in the big box home improvement stores.
Is the float itself not gas powered or the tow vehicle? I run a 3000 watt inverter in my work trucks to keep from lugging a gen around or get caught in a situation where a gen is needed but not planned for
Not powered. It's a towed trailer that I don't think even has lights. Minimal DOT type enforcement on these things.