I got a gsxr 750 last month, when I got it it had 2 gallons of gas in the crank and every inch between the two wheels were covered in oil and fuel because the crank vent tube was not attached and it blew out everywhere. I have everything figured out with the exception of two problems. 1. The speedometer is shaky on acceleration. The harder I push it the harder it shakes. It does not bother me but I do not know if it is a symptom of something else. 2. Almost no functional throttle. At any given moment there is only a 1/16 of the throttle where the bike will actually accelerate, the faster I go the further back it is, but if I try to open it up too soon the motor bogs down. I have a steep driveway and cannot get up it with the clutch out. From a dead stop I have to ride out the clutch until I hit 25 or the motor bogs and does not come back, I can then go OWT and hit 65 in second gear and I stop at 75 in 3 and as long as I hold the throttle where it is I have no problem. But if I cruse up to 55 and then try to accelerate further the bike again bogs and slows down and will not accelerate until I ether cover one of the air intakes with my hand or pull the clutch and drop two gears and rev up and ride the clutch out until it reaches its sweet spot and it will pull again. I have checked and set the TPS, new plugs, ohmed out both coils, cleaned and jetted the carbs, cleaned the k&n air filter, rebuilt the fuel shut off, replaced the vacuum and fuel lines. The relays that attach to the bottom of the carbs that are vacuum controlled by the top of the slider diaphragms have been removed. I have a dynojet kit in the carbs and I tried going up a clip on the needle to see if that gave me more fuel and fixed my problem. When I did the top end problem was better but not fixed but I could not accelerate from a stop. I have the 32 out side 30 inside main jets and I think the low speed are 12.5 and a yoshimura exhaust. I am not sure what to try next and am hoping some one might have an idea for me to try next.
Hopefully you didn't drill out the slides when you did the Dynojet kit. If you can source it get the Factory Pro jet kit and install with the stock OEM diaphragm springs.
I just checked the valves and they are all in specs. The timing was forward a tooth on the crank and I fixed that. I could not get the timing perfect for some reason. When the arrow for #1 on the EX cam was flush with the head the crank was off one way or the other. The attached picture was as close as I could get the timing. I could get up the driveway with the clutch out now but it did not change my throttle problem at all.
New air cleaner if the old one got soaked with oil/gas mix. Then read http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=293204
I will check that when I try to retime it today or tomorrow. Replacing that jet holder fixed it for you?
I set the cams and then unbolted the starter clutch and moved the chain around the crank. I made sure when i put it back on that the mark on it match up with the mark on the crank as well.
Can you post a picture of the cam alignment at TDC I'm wondering if you have everything correct, you may have spun the gear on the cam. how many pin can you count from gear to gear
Next time I take it apart I will take more pictures. I'm hoping that will be tomorrow. Their are 15 pins starting from the #2 arrow on the EX cam to the #3 arrow on the IN cam.
Replacing the jet holders did fix it. Take them out and hold.them up to the sunlight. Look up the middle of the.tube. if you can see a scuff on the side where the needle has been rubbing there is your problem. The taper of the needle moving in and out of that hole is what regulates your part throttle mixture. Any damage or wear on the inside of that tube causes a giant leak that can drive you crazy.
