Any Chrysler Techs on the BBS?

Thats all that I was hoping for! :up:

 

Another little thing to take notice to.

In a lot of the cases where water was in the blower motor area, you could actually hear water sloshing and whirring against the fan blades.

It'll take a few minutes to 30 minutes to actually accumulate any water on a semi-humid day.

 

I don't hear the slooshing water while driving. Where near the dash should I attempt to listen for the fan/water noise?

 

The evap coil is actually located in the center w/ the blower about 12in to the right-it would take alot of water in the case to make it over to the fan & surely leak out the floor ducts prior to that.You did not state what type of ac system you have-manual control,auto temp control,3 zone auto temp-something important when trying to diag. an issue like this,none the less it sounds like an evaporator freezing up issue.Poss causes are low freon level,evap fin probe prob.,sticking expansion valve,ac control head issue.Fin probe & ac control head issues can leave codes in the system & somtimes not-most guys won't even ck-so be sure to ask if that has been done.Freon level & expansion valve function are easy ck's if looked at properly.There are no technical service bulletines for an issue like yours.I would rec you take it to a reputable shop who can access the ac system codes,ck the freon level ,comp cycling frequency & system pressures.By the way there was a recall for an ac pressure line on 09's-K04,see if it has been completed

 

Thanks for the heads-up :up:

We have the dual temperature A/C. Is that enough info?

 

Sweeney186 makes some good points, and by no means am I trying to start a pissing match, but it doesn't sound to me like a freeze up situation.

If the evaporator core was freezing up due to stuck expansion valve or improper refrigerant level, why would the blower motor slow down and then eventually stop? In every freeze up scenario I've ever had the blower motor would still run, you would just lose the cool air. In a few cases the volume of air was reduced but I've never had it stop altogether.

If you were going to listen for water, you'd want your head almost right in between the front seat cushions. Another way to check for semi-proper drain tube operation would be to park on level ground, put the windows down, turn the a/c on and look for a small drip and puddle to form from underneath the front center of the van.

If it starts to get to you and no one can figure it out after a while, why not make a trip up towards Harrisburg? Hell, I go to glen burnie every so often for training, maybe I'll check in with you the next time I'm down that way if it's not too far off.

 

Sounds like it's your blendoor motor.

 

Well he still hasn't said whether the blower motor is actually slowing down and stopping... only that airflow stops. So thats a pretty critical piece of info at this point.

 

I'm going to agree with you, it sounds like the evap is freezing up and blocking the airflow. If it was condensation backing up and making it over to the blower motor, there would be water somewhere on the floorboard as well as it would take a lot of water to make it over there. Plus, if water was getting on the motor, most likely it would be giving problems around town from time to time as well.

I should note too that if you look (no need to take the lower cover off, you can see it clearly with a flashlight if you stick your head between the dash and the floorboard and look toward the "transmission tunnel") and you DO have the "ball" style drain hose, there was a recall to have that replaced to the newer tube style. For your 09 it was Recall K31. Chances are it's been done already, but if you take it to a dealer or call with your VIN they can look it up to tell you (as well as the K04).

I'm only a Chrysler certified tech though with one of my certifications being AC, so that's my $.02..

 

And where were you 28 posts ago?

Fwiw, I checked for the k31 and it's not available for his vehicle, but our Chrysler techs (all certified) have seen a few that were affected and not covered within the scope of the recall.

 

I will PM you my number as I still have connections that may be able to assist with parts.

 

Thanks to all for the help in this matter!


If I remember correctly, if we pull off at a rest stop/gas (shutting the engine off) for 10-15 minutes or so. When we restart the vehicle cold or hot air resumes blowing for a shorter period of time. Maybe 30-40 minutes???

 

Fashionably late.. :up:

 

What department at the dealer do I call to determine this information?

 

Just ask for Service and tell them you want to check and see if there are any Recalls for your vehicle. Have your VIN # ready, probably just the last 8 will do.

 

:up:

 

Dropped the car off and got the call from the dealer indicating that they cannot locate a problem.

The dealer indicated that they could replace anything I said to replace but they said, "they didnt want to replace parts and the problem still exist".

The claimed they had a tech working 3 hours on the car.

They expected me to pay them for something that they didnt fix. I still have a vehicle that has cooling/heating issues and we're leaving for Tampa tomorrow

I know I signed the "work order" indicating that I had to pay for diagnosing hours but they found nothing and want me to pay for an hour of time. I was against that! Especially with the wife bitching in one ear Was I wrong?

I still have a vehicle that broken.

 

So they couldn't verify a problem that only occurs after 2 hours of driving with the car in the shop or on a short test drive? Big suprise...

Odds are if it were something electrical it would show up around town on a hot day. 95% of the time this is the evaporator feezing up, that shows up when the car is at highway speed with the A/C set to recirculate for a substained period of time. There are a few different things that can cause that, the best way to combat it on your trip is to run on fresh air and turn the A/C off for a few minutes every so often(like every 30-40 minutes). If you expect the dealership to fix it, drive it until it acts up then allow them to check it, giving them the opportunity to verify what is happening.

 

Yeah, this was what I was afraid of . . . attempting to identify the problem.

 

or just don't drive longer than 30 mins