Ok...drained all the liquids (cept oil)...ran till tank was empty on gas... Do i need to really do anything else to keep her ready to go this march?
But...but...but... your tank will be full of rust? I don't know as I live in the south where I ride year round. David
yeah man drain the float bowls, but closed fuel tap full tank with fuel stabilizer(you can spray fogging oil in the tank, but it doesnt sound good to me, cause then it will run through the carbs) dont forget coolant so you dont crack a block, and dry isnt good for it either(you wont ever get it completely dry also) may want to change the oil, it goes funny after sitting, like acidic probably wouldnt be a bad idea to bleed the brakes next season too
Re: Re: Winterizing my bike or like i do, leave it sitting at work in the shop, right here next to me.
well I figured since it is about to get cold I would bring this back to front.......and I have a question, I don't touch my bikes for about 6 months (average) what is the best way to store them to save the tires? on stands and leave it be, or on kick stand and move it around every couple of weeks?
and as long as i walk out and start my bike every couple of weeks and let it runs for 5 or so minutes i dont have to worry about it not running in february when i go to start it back up for tally?
I would store it on stands. Also make sure you fill with anti-freeze as that'll help prevent your radiator from rusting out.
store it on stands, leave air in the tires, change oil and fill, fill tank of fuel, and add a few oz. of stabilizer to the tank, drain float bowls if carbureted, put battery on charge, take all plugs out, spray fogging oil in each cylinder, turn engine over a few times, and reinstall spark plugs.
My F4i radiator "rusted" out. I thought it was a simple leak and when I took it to the radiator place to have it fixed they said it had multiple leaks. I asked how do I prevent this...they said "Use antifreeze"
While I disagree with some of the above (mostly the tip on draining the float bowls - without disassembling them you're not going to get all of the gas out of them, and what's left will varnish. Not to mention the seals are designed to be wet not dry out, but I'm sure it can be done successfully) the one tip I don't see here that I will offer up is... Do NOT start the bike over the winter! I see people all the time who start their bike once a month (or whatever) and let it run for 15 or 30 minutes. This is absolutely useless and does more harm than good. If you're not getting the RPMs up, you're not going to charge the battery, you will just drain it. And you will create condensation in the headers which will rust them. For me it was simple. Top off the fuel w/stabilizer, run until it was through the injectors or through the float bowls, change the oil, pop on a battery tender and stuff steel wool in all openings (air tubes, exhaust, etc etc etc) as mice hate the shit and it sucks to have them chew up a wiring harness to make a nest in your airbox (trust me on that one). That's it. Less is more...
I grew up in the wintery North, and this is what I've always done. One note on the oil...after it sits all winter, you might have a cloudy view into the iol glass. This causes people to think they need to change the oil again...you don't. It will get some condensation in it, but the oil is fine. Just ride it, and when it gets hot the water will cook off and you're gtg.