I am reassembling my supermono ('89 TZ250 chassis and Honda Ascot 591 motor), and I want to replace the existing rod that links the shift pedal (from a late-model GSXR600) to the transmission on the motor. The current set up uses a 7" rod and two extra male and female threaded pieces to add up to a length of about 9.5". The current rod is solid stainless steel, and when I was racing the bike, I noticed that it would flex and provide awful feedback. Can anyone suggest a stock shift link rod that would be about 9.5" in length? I've been searching eBay to get some ideas. The F3/F4 rods look pretty long in the pics. I was also wondering about ATVs. The Yamaha Grizzly piece looks quite long in the pics, but I can't get a sense of scale. The ATV pieces look like they have two female ends, as well, so I would need to come up with some threaded inserts to work with the cycle joints. I'm hoping someone can suggest an easy fix. Thanks. Kurt And yeah, I'm wincing as I use words like "male," "female," "rod," "joint," etc. in a WERA board post
Pay a visit to Mcmaster.com, order up some 1/2" hard anodized aluminum rod and a few 6mm male metric ball joints. Cut the rod to the length you need, drill and tap the ends for the ball joints, add some flanged lock nuts, and you are golden. That's what I use when I have to make custom bits, and the difference in shift feel (compared to those wobbly 6mm steel, or particularly Dynojet's crap shift rods) is enormous.
Excellent, thanks. That is just the ticket. btw--This isn't my only winter project. I'm going to be rebuilding the Duc 800SS J.D. tuned for me last spring. I put all of 50 laps on the bike before I was tossed and it rode itself into the Armco at VIR. John Deeres and Ducatis--both will drive themselves into the next county.
Mcmaster sells a female threaded rod. It is only SAE (no metric), but you can get ball joint rod ends there as well. I used these parts on my Ascot when I grafted on the FZR rearsets. If you need metric you can get male threaded rod instead. I have never had luck linking to a specific Mcmaster page, but here's the link to the threaded rod start section- Threaded rod
Lathe or well jigged drill press. Maybe a mill if that's all that you have. I have done it with all of the previous mentioned methods, it's all about what's at hand.
Yeah, I use a lathe but a drill press would work too, with good setup. In the OP I skimmed right by who wrote it, Kurt, didn't realize it was you. Hope you are well.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/1454404246.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/1453357345.html And the best one yet... http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/1449245137.html
Either of the top two, dicker on price. The bottom one would be good for spacers and little play stuff. They are all top quality Craftsman models, can't go wrong. The only way to go better is spend more, but then you need to drop at least $2500 for a good model with some reach and length. If you want brand new, go to Harbor Freight, but I would buy a used Craftsman or South Bend over any HF model. I am no expert on lathes, but older American models seem to a) hold their value and, b) don't wear out as fast.
Fast from the Past Kurt, I would check out the various lenths they have in rearset parts and pieces, ball joints, male/female connectors etc at Fast From the Past before building your own/fabricating it. http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-Rearset-Parts/Categories
That's a great source. Lots of neat bits. $8 for a shift rod. I have all of the other pieces. Inexpensive is good! Thanks, Boltos.
I'm fine, J.D., thanks. The left collar bone I broke this spring didn't displace much at all--unlike my right side, ggrrrrr. You did a great job with the fueling on the bike, smoooooth--for all three of the races it did It probably won't happen this year, but would you be able to fab an exhaust for the 800 that would give it this look (I really dig the 916 tail on the SS):
