Give me some reasons as to why the hell it might be there? Replaced all 16 Valve guide seals. Motor runs on idle. The scenario below has happened 3 times. I'll get it warmed up in the morning, head out in the first session down in the straight, tip in to a high speed left handed Turn 2, on the gas down the hill into a slow right handed Turn 3 and then it starts running on less than 4 cylinders, then loses throttle response, then dies. After this scenario it usually has oil seeping out the seams of the header tubes. (ie cross member tubes, collector tubes) No oil in the airbox, nothing on the sparkplugs. As of now will start up. 2006 GSXR 750 Supersport build, bearings, milled head, gaskets, the usual. Bazzaz TC ZFi, Full Akrapovic Evo exhaust.
Sounds like two different issues..the stalling but clean plugs and the oil dripping out the pipe don't go together... if the oil is passing through the combustion chamber and out the exhaust valves, it will smoke like a bitch AND the plugs will be dark and oiled. The o-rings leaking/omitted can explain the oil in the pipe, but would that make it stall?
It originally let go at the tail end of a track day in the begining of June, and when that happened it was kicking out blue smoke like crazy.. I didnt get a chance to look for smoke this time because I was in the middle of a turn and just wanted to get off track ASAP. I'll be checking the pulgs for sure toinght, but they can't be too bad if the thing starts afterwards. Right?
In terms of finding where the oil is coming from, the "reading" from the plugs is critical. Plugs will continue to fire as oil residue builds up, they don't just go tit's up at the first "layer" of oil residue. So if you have three that show normal burn color and one that shows oil/oil residue you can begin to figure out why it's happening. When it fires up again after stalling, do you get blue/white smoke out the silencer and does it run on all four cyls?
A leak down test will show if the rings are to blame. But if you did not use a bore dial gauge or rock the stem in the guides to see if there is excessive clearance, you might try the guides as your oil in the hole. This will need a bore scope on this one, but if you can look down the throttle body, see if you can flashlight the intake valves; they might show a drop about to hang off an open valve or a puddle is in the back of a closed intake? If say you pull the exhaust pipe, turn the crank, see oil drip off a closed valve with the oil hanging off... We have that picture in the visual?
Wet or dry, not that it matters really as it relates to the stalling. More info needed as to why the engine was opened in the first place, I suspect the problem/s are related to the original complaint and/or the repairs.
All the plugs fouled or just one or two?? Virtually has to be a hole in a piston or a broken ring..... How else could it get there in that kind of volume unless it was poured in through the tail pipe??!! - ve
If 4 cylinders are leaking with all guide seals changed, flip the ring is what are the odds all 4 oil scraper rings are on upside down and now we forget the 16 guides that are floating or ripped without a, pro fo laugh tick-tick-tick over my penis and ripped something on the install without a booty over the sharp valve stem edge> Heading up the seal to cut into how many? This is as much fun as the quad seal thread on the brake drag my pad.
How about this guess...the inside of the pipe is coated with a built up layer of oil soaked carbon that is getting cooked/burned out of the pipe as it heats up. If it did not stall out, he would probably have a good smoke producing device when the pipe gets up to full temp. The clue is the freshly replaced valve seals which tells me it was pumping oil though the head into the headers. Now as to the stalling..
Take off the exhaust and check the exhaust manifold and the header for residue. Did you reuse the header after the engine let go the first time? If so, maybe the O2 sensor is picking up the oil in the exhaust as it's burning off and causing havoc within the engine's control system. Just throwing stuff out there ...
Good thought about the O2 sensor, but if it got hosed down and is coated with baked oil, it's probably ruined and not reporting much of anything which of course drives the ECU crazy.
I would think the oil burns hotter than gas. Lucky that ratio is safe like a 2-stroke, or detonation would set in; if oil is already in the chamber; I think someone was left out on the valve close. I'm going to guess, air is the lost ratio is the stall. You gonna fire liquid [oil already displaced in the chamber] or was it air(?) is again, imo, she stalls as to the stalling...
seeing i know who built this engine Daryl have you checked the simple things first? Leak down? I mean SEE if your leak down is under 1-2% first...then the above suggestions are all great. I would rule out the rings like some have stated. i mean maybe if you see 10% you can go 'ah haaa...internal" Not that the leak down will show what i think, but my guess is someone snagged an oil scraper rail...i have seen it from this builder before Daryl, not bad mouthing just saying i have seen 2 engines from them with snagged scraper rails. Now if you only did the top end SS build, then never mind on rings. Check the stuff you HAVE touched/done...like they said, the air injection set up, since the oil then would go right into the exhaust ports/pipe. I still think even if you had a leak there, it would not cause to run like shit/stall. Good luck man.
