Bumper pull campers (again)

If it is 50 you have to be aware you have 2 legs in your box in the trailer so going to a 110 adapter will only feed one of those legs. Sometimes the second leg only feeds an A/C but I don't know the wiring on those units.

Sounds good but check closely, it may require certain maintenance on the roof be performed and documented to keep the warranty intact.

 

Oh one last thing about the black water tank. Some RVs have a flush port on them. My 27fs Desert Fox has a specific hose port that runs into the black water tank to act as an internal flush/spray nozzle. Its locate on the outside near all the other water connections but should be marked as a flush port. Really helps inside the tank to get it cleaned out. If you have this port and use it, make sure the crapper lid is down, the crapper ball flush valve is full closed and the black water drain valve is open as you are essentially hosing out the inside of the tank. If you leave the drain closed, you can inadvertently fill the tank and make a mess by flowing crap into the RV.

 

jesus christ talk about a shitty situation. Thanks for the heads up

 

I ALWAYS made sure when I was using vent fans that they were set to pressurize the unit, so if the shower vent is exhausting on med, I had the living area vent on intake on max. If you don't, you can pull black tank smells into the rig, ICK. Cheap plug in ozone generators work great for deodorizing RVs BTW, just don't use them excessively as they will start to break down fabrics and trigger oxidation on things when overdone.

 

If you have one of the black tank flush ports, don't use your freshwater drinking hose to hook up to it.
Get a hose rated for fresh drinking water connections and don't use that hose for any other purpose.

 

Never considered getting Water from Wal-mart, interesting.

 

Home and Garden Center

 

They probably do make 20A (what you're calling 110) -> 50A converters... but you'll want a 30A -> 50A as well anyway, and 20A -> 30A are more common so just go 20 -> 30 -> 50.

The 30A plug is also actually 110v, and then the 50A is two opposite 110 legs as @DaveB said. Your RV won't require both legs to be opposite, however (as you won't have anything in there that needs 220v power) so all the converters just power both "hot" wires on the 50A plug with the same single hot wire from the 20 or 30A plugs.

If none of that makes sense, don't worry about it. Point is that using the converters works, you just can't pull more amperage than the smallest part of your connection. If you're connected to a 20A supply and you try to run both a 15A air conditioner and a 10A water heater, you'll pop the breaker you're plugged into cuz that's 25A. Etc.

 

You guys are awsesome! Of course, I can build any engine known to man, but not gonna lie, regula electricity scares the shit out of me so i'd rather ask 1000 stupid questions. I don't wanna burn it to the ground on the first outing.

 

Smart man, not kidding. Fire is my #1 fear in these things and electricity is pretty much the only ignition source available. But, realistically, all the insulation and most of the construction these days are flame-retardant materials. Lots of the framing is still built of wood, but the wall panels and insulation and etc is all fiberglass. And the manufacturers build 'em like idiots but they also build them for idiots, so you're not exactly tightroping above a snake pit in terms of designed safety.

 

And with all the water leaks you don't know about yet, most of it is saturated anyways.

 

How do you figure that? 50Amp is actually 2 50-amp legs. So if you are feeding with 2 30's you have shorted yourself.

 

I bet there's been plenty of times Mongo has shorted himself, in his lifetime...

 

I forgot to mention in my earlier suggestions @Robby-Bobby, they quit selling those bumper-pull trailer hitches for your El Camino years ago, for good reason.

 

Yeah, they did.
That reason was Elco drivers pulling all the P%&Y!!!

 

Ok so everything seems to work but a few questions: I hooked up the camper with the power cords I bought.

50 amp screws into the side of the trailer, then I have a cord that has a reducer to 30amp then another reducer to plug into a normal receptical at my house.
All power works and lights up, I was worried about power, so I tested 1 Ac at a time and both work and cool. Then the breaker in my house popped. I reset it and didnt run ac anymore but I did have the ac fan on just to circulate while i checked the rest.

The slides both work and are faster with the trailer hooked to my house so I am guessing the battery up front was just weak.

Speaking of that, when I am plugged into my house or truck, does something charge that battery? When I am going down the road, I assume the propane keeps fridge operating?
both fridges cooled eventually, after plugging into house.

When I turned on water, it got hot fast. So I assume the trailer has an electric water heater? Because I don't have propane tanks yet.

DO I leave water pump switch on the whole time I am camping? Or do I flip it on when I need water? The campsite supposedly has water hookups so I assume I dont need to fill my tanks? I bought a water regulator to put in line so I don't kill my lines yet. Or at least thats what the camper guy told me.

Haven't taken it anywhere yet, but so far I am excited. I know this will change after this weekends first outing, with the lady and kids, so I know ill be pulling a "hold the fucking flashlight steady" but ovverall, still pumped.

I also found the original paperwork and apparently this thing was loaded out with options. The sticker price was $40k and it must have sat at repo lot for like 6 months or so but I scooped it for a little under $16k so I "feel" like I did ok.

 

LOL I actually originally thouhgt maybe just for fun locally, but this thing makes my f250 look small. In fact, I bet I could park the elky in that thing if it were a toy hauler.