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Wheel bearing question

Discussion in 'Tech' started by 50Joe, Jul 31, 2020.

  1. 50Joe

    50Joe Registered User

    I've got two sets of wheels for my 2015 FZ07. A friend used a bearing puller (I watched) to remove the wheel bearings to have the wheels powder coated. I decided to reuse the bearings because they are in great shape and have few miles on them. The bearings went into the front wheel easier than when I have done this on other bikes wheels. Still, there is some interference fit. The large bearing on the back wheel (brake rotor side) took what I consider to be "normal" force to drive it in. Here's the issue. On each wheel the bearing that goes in the hub area on the sprocket side can be put in by hand. I tried both bearings on each rear wheel and the fit is nearly identical. I've never experienced this before and do you think this is a problem or once the rear wheel is torqued down to spec all will be right in the world? Pic is of the bearing that slides into the hub on the rear wheel. FYI - the sprocket carrier has a bearings in it as well that the wheel spacer butts up to.
     

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  2. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    Did that bearing come out with any resistance?

    A machine shop can knurl the bore, which will offer a tighter fit.

    I use a blind bearing tool to expand inside the bearing, flip the wheel over in my press, then, press out the bearing by applying pressure to the backend of the tool. This eliminates shock to the bearing and wheel.
     
  3. 50Joe

    50Joe Registered User

    I'll ask my friend about this specific side of the rear wheel but he did say several of the bearings came out rather easily. So, I think the tolerances on these wheels from Yamaha kinda suck. Another FZ07 forum member went through the same issue last year but didn't post what his solution was. It's a low budget bike so maybe corners were cut in some areas during the manufacturing process. Yamaha probably figures the buyer of this model probably would never change the bearings. But, who knows if the bean counters got involved???

    If I left it as is and once torque was applied to the rear wheel upon assembly do you think I would be good to go? The bearing in the sprocket carrier looks like it would carry more load than this bearing and they are both on the same side of the wheel. The bearing on the brake disc side of the wheel is more robust and that one needed pretty good force to get it seated all the way in. I had the bearings in my freezer for a few days and the wheel was out in my garage which was 102 degrees when I put the bearings in. But with everything at the same temp I can still slide the bearing in by hand on the drive side.
     
  4. Peter Hively

    Peter Hively Registered

  5. Phl218

    Phl218 .

    I’d say some lighter loctite if it’s too loose.
     
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  6. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    I don’t think I’d worry too much about it. Now, you know to be aware of it, should you start noticing anything unusual from the rearend.

    The cush drive doesn’t support any weight, as it’s essentially floating on its own bearing.
     
    50Joe likes this.
  7. Pneumatico Delle Vittorie

    Pneumatico Delle Vittorie Retired "Tire" Guy

    All bearings in a engine case, swingarm, wheel, on a steering stem are a friction fit. If a bearing comes out easily then it was installed incorrectly IMHO.
    Not good but as you put this back together make sure the outside of the bearing isn't rotating during use. So maybe mark all the bearings and then check them after a practice session or street ride? And maybe Peter's idea may have some merit?
     
    50Joe likes this.
  8. Brad

    Brad Swollen Member

    We've seen several that blasted the bearing area and allowed the bearings just fall in and out. To aggressive of a media and too little knowledge of aluminum mc wheel. They guy we use tapes off and avoids the "no zones."
     
  9. 50Joe

    50Joe Registered User

    Same with my guy. He tapes off all critical areas. bearing areas were not blasted. He even plugs holes in the frame that have threads in them. He has lots of experience. He does show quality powder coating that is super durable.

    I only have the issue with the drive side rear wheel bearing. The rotor side took good force to install the bearing. I posted on the FZ07 forum and several other guys have had the exact same issue in the exact same area/bearing so it appears to be a low quality fit from the factory.
     
    ducnut and Brad like this.
  10. TLR67

    TLR67 Well-Known Member

    Put.them in a freezer the day before you install them...
     

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