Oh it is, it will power wheelie in every gear. It way more than doubled the OEM HP. BUT...the OEM clutch cant handle it. Livengood had a custom clutch made for it (there are probably aftermarket alternatives now). When he first did the motor, he couldn't even get it past 6k on the dyno without slipping. He did some custom springs, and that would let it get to about 8k, but that's it. Had to redo the clutch, and now it is a beast.
Nothing was particularly hard about the fork internals. The only unique step I can remember is having to remove the fork lugs, and that is done best by having the vice tool. You can also use a small strap wrench if you're careful. If you're comfortable heating up the lug and removing it, then I'd say it's easy.
From my research on it, you want to watch the Hard Racing video as that's the most comprehensive. They also recommend buying those two specialty tools to make life much easier - they were like $80.
that's what i was referring to. they actually discussed in the video that you can rent the tool, and dont have to buy it
I think renting was 50 vs buying for 80. I’ve got the parts and you’re more than welcome to borrow them when I’m done, but I’m not a real fast worker (had them for a few months now).
i'm going to order the fork internals once i pick it up. from what i saw on the Ohlins site, the 2017 model uses the FDK111 ? i'm a fast worker, so i can ship the tool back to you within the week.
Send me a PM when you get the internals you need and I'll ship them up to you. Odds are you'll almost certainly get them before I start. Will probably drop the engine and put in a new 3d elbow before working on the forks.
With the OEM length swingarm, that thing would be unrideable. Mine only makes around 26hp...and it will wheelie in every gear if you want. That thing with 180-200hp would be ridiculous. But I still want one.
If you watch the grom swap video below, that dude mentions that there's no way the axle could handle that power. Anyhow, was finally shamed into doing the fork swap this weekend - went fairly smoothly, although there's definitely some things that have changed since the hardracing video and the Ohlins directions were straight fucking dogshit. Main change is that the rubber boot is re-used from the OEM fork caps, so don't throw those away.....also, the piston rings on my forks were both facing the same way (on the OEM, obviously). Googled that and it seemed like that's fairly common in the more recent vintages, and also hardracing said it doesn't matter as long as they're installed correctly on the Ohlins kit. Also, if you're using pitbull stands, you need to use zip ties or something to keep the bike from sliding backwards (you can see the white ties in the attached pic) because of how high the front gets when using the triple stand (that was my solution, anyhow - perhaps someone has a better way or I'm just doing something wrong). Didn't get a chance to try them out because 1) the PO semi-stripped some bolts, and even though I could get them out it bothers the fuck outta me when I have to be extra gentle so I'm replacing those and 2) while it's up on the stands, would like to drop the engine and get this 3d elbow jammy installed which is supposed to fix the fueling. It's so snatchy at low throttle (because of the engine swap, the injector isn't in the right place or something ) that it's pretty sketchy to try and ride it aggressively. Another note is that the directions called for 235 mL of fork oil (I went with 20W, when I believe the Ohlins is either 5 or 10) - there's PLENTY of room left to add, so that was good to see. My concern is that even this beefier suspension won't be able to handle my beef coupled with the added heft of the engine. TBD.
where are you guys getting your aftermarket stuff? I know of Hard Racing, but wasnt sure if there's another good one out there
I got mine from STG (Jimmy) on here. Was great to work with (had to return the first one because the piggyback shock wouldn’t fit my bike).