Mountain Bikes!

I agree, run with what you have, its just not worth swapping all that stuff on to your existing bike and like mentioned, I don't think you can get the cassette you will need on your existing rear wheel.

 

Not sure what your rear spacing is, but 1x11 should be do-able on most 135mm hub widths.

 

is it necessary to change hubs or are there adapters to allow 11 speed cassettes on "10speed hubs"? or does the new cassette just slide on? (assuming 135 spacing)

 

3x has too much overlap. 2x isnt any better. Even a new base model bike will be better in everyway for exercise. If you just want a pedal pit bike...keep it for that. A 29er is gona be around for sometime and can do everything better. There are some inexpensive alternatives like Diamondback. You have to e order not buy at walmart

 

I converted my 26” trance to a 1x12 and it works fine. No real rubbing, I just noted the derailure really hangs down low when you have a 50T rear cassette. Seems like it will be a branch magnet but so far I’m thrilled with the 1x and dropper modifications and with tubeless tires, I’m down around 28lb for a 125mm bike.


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That's another "it depends" answer.

As 11-speed groups were coming out (which was right around 2012), wheel/hub manufacturers started to include longer freehub body and spacers to accommodate 11-speed cassettes, so even if your bike was 10-speed, it could have enough room for 11. You don't really know until you pull off the cassette and measure. Some wheels, you can get a 11-speed freehub easily if you need to, but it wasn't universally offered nor was there a universal part to fit.

edit: oh, didn't see Monsterdood's reply. Do what he did.

 

You're getting some pretty straight advice. While it is certainly possible to get 1x12 working on the bike, it really isn't something I would advise doing. You are really better off spending that money starting over. Going to 11 speed will be easier and less expensive, but even then you said the bike works fine. If the cassette is bad, just replace it as that would be super cheap. Throwing a few hundred dollars at it would be a complete loss. But if you are set on swapping, look at 11 speed groups.

 

i agree with these too. hell i'm still on a 10sp and have been the entire time i started getting back into mountain biking... 2010? My 29er is a 2015 and its still on XT 10sp. Its not killing anyone at all, still riding a 34t front as well. I'm thinking about oval 32t and 11 or 12sp on the next bike, but like these dudes are saying, don't waste the money. Just ride the bike and keep it going until you're ready for a new bike. i'll probably switch out for a new guy this winter finally, but still... bike's a bike. the mountain bike industry is THE worst as far as marketing gimmicks and and standards changes for no or SLIGHT reasonings. there have been some BIG changes every few years, but then a SHIT LOAD of hardly a change that's marginally better that requires you to buy a bunch of new gear. tubeless tires, clutch derailleurs, narrow-wide chainrings... boost is idiotic tho IMO when 150mm had been a standard for years and years already. i doubt most people would notice the wheel stiffness increase of like 4% or whatever it is. every DH bike from like 2007 to 2018 had been using 83mm cranks and 150/157mm rear hubs. Knolly made a trail/enduro bike with those component specs super recently. gimmicks though mostly man, gimmicks. hell i was rocking a 1x10 on a 14.5lb. carbon road bike in like 2006 with no front derailleur and a track chainring on it so it had no ramps back before narrow-wide existed at all. thing was a rocket ship and never dropped a chain.

when 29ers started getting more aggressive in maybe 2018 or so, a bunch of bikes came out that basically had the same geo as my bike, which was a 2014/15 model. furthermore, when 27.5" enduro bikes really started being popular, a lot of THOSE basically had the exact travel and geo of my 2012 Intense Tracer 2, which was a 170f/160r 26er with like a 66.5* HT angle and short ass chainstays. what once was old is new again. i will say on new-new stuff, Reach seems to be getting longer and wheelbase, a bit too long for my taste with my shorter arms, but also seat tube angles seem to be getting a little more upright, which is rad. otherwise... not much to notice. hell, i'm looking at getting a 2019 in the frame i want, same company, where the reach is like 45mm longer than my current bike, because the 2020 model is like 65mm longer, and i already don't feel cramped as is. i'll get me a nice sale price when it turns to the off season this winter as a leftover, and that'll be that. save your cash.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will save my money for an eventual new bike and keep riding this one for a while.
Btw, I was just in the lbs today and he said 90 people are on the waiting list for new bikes! CRAZY! I guess the auto industry isn't the only one offering 0% apr.

 

I should mention that I got new wheels and the rear had to get a SRAM XDR free wheel hub to be able to use the 12 speed cassette. So between the SRAM GX groupset, Stan’s tubeless Wheels, maxxis tubeless tires, and a new dropper, I think I was $1200 into a 2005 26” bike. My problem was the equivalent performance and weight with a 27.5 or 29 wheeled bike was going to be around $3000. So I refreshed a 5” travel trail bike for way cheaper than a new bike and I’m having a lot of fun riding it.

 

Yeah, Bikes are sold out everywhere from what I can tell!! I'm glad I bought my new one right before the Pandemic hit and bike shops were allowed to stay open!!
I was actually thinking about doing LBS with someone that already has a successful shop in the next town over, but he wasn't ready for an expansion at the time and then all the shit hit the fan and he's been swamped. I wish it would have timed out just a little different! Heck, I was in a shop a few days ago and they must have had 40 bikes in there showroom that were there for repairs!! He basically had nothing to even sell, just a shop full of broken bikes! Unbelievable really

 

I'm really bummed about the bikes being sold out.. I just got one of my best friends convinced to jump into this hobby as well.. he's ready to pull the trigger but nothing is in stock.

 

Shimano MTN bike freehub is the same width for 8/9/10/11 speed.

The 3x10 can't be beat for range, unless it's worn out I'd leave as is. If it's worn out, at this age anything will be over capitalising but an slx/xt shifter, rear der, cassette, chainring and chain won't break the bank.

 

I've been having a lot of issues with my left hand going numb about 6-7 miles into a ride. I do what i can to make sure i'm not gripping the bars too hard and i'm removing as much pressure as i can during smooth stretches..

It happens on the race bike as well, but I've learned how to minimize it by essentially doing the same thing (removing pressure and paying attention to grip level) I switch clip ons a month ago and it feels way better.

I'm feeling a little stretched out on the bike and i think that may be part of the issue. (it was on the race bike) The bike shop sized me up for this particular frame for the Roscoe and everything was fine until i started getting comfy with riding faster/harder. Now i'm starting to get numbness in my hand. I've had a lot of wrist injuries over the years (skateboarding) So i'm alwasy going to have some issues.. But it;s starting to get a little painful. It goes away with no lasting effects after the ride though.

Would changing the bar height help? I also see that there are bars with more of a sweep back bend to them.

I'm only about a month into this hobby, but I feel like changing the bars will have a big effect on handling? i like the way the bike handles, (at least i think I do, I've never ridden another bike in the trails) i just want to stop my hand from numbing..

Any tips?

 

of course fit is extremely important. I started out on a med with added stem length and a 40mm rise in the bars. My current bike is a large but 0 length added in the stem or rise in the bar. You should be able to pedal the front up fairly easy on a well fitted bike. Its better to undersize than over.

 

It's probably not wise to speculate about bike fit over the internet and risk further harm, but assuming your bike isn't oddly asymmetrical, hand issues are 99% tied to excess load on wrists.

Sizing up is usually less desired than sizing down because while you can add excess seatpost/stem length to compensate on a smaller bike, you can't really shorten the top tube to lessen the reach. I'd go back to the shop and ask them to do something since they sold you the bike, I'd expect free fitting consultation until they got it right, and/or a free swap to the right size bike if they did indeed get it wrong.

 

might try thicker grips, also higher bars. i run like a 40-50mm rise in my bars like above. i just like it better. i guess if you were doing mad tricks or jumping, potentially that's less leverage until you pull up into your chest, but i'm not like mr. 40ft. whip guy or anything so doesn't matter to me. to me, it puts me in the correct pushup riding position more easily. also play with the angle of your brake levers. too steep and you're reaching weird for them, too flat and often you put unecessary pressures on your palm/wrists. some people like them super flat, others don't. personal preference, but try playing with it a little.

honestly, i felt like Oury grips helped keep that at bay for me compared to all the run of the mill lock-on ones out there. they're like $10, might be worth a try.

 

i would say tho... if you size up, your seat is most likely lower in relation to the bars most likely than being smaller, so probably more on your sitbones and core, and less on the wrists. if you run a small bike, you're up above the bars more and arms are angled down more, putting more pressure down on the hands.

 

Different grips will help for sure, something like the Ergon GS1 works well for many people. Your bar width can have a lot of impact on hand numbness as can angle of levers/shifters.
Shops are overwhelmed for sure and many bikes are out of stock, parts can be hard to get right now too. Bike shops are suddenly busier than ever with people wanting to get outside and do something with all the restrictions in place. I have been getting anything from bike assemblies to standard tuneups to old-ass bikes that have been sitting in garages for a decade plus that need lots of work and parts. I really don't like those in general because they get mad at the cost every single time. It is almost never a good thing, so I am very picky on those now, only those that are just fixing what's necessary and not going overboard.
That said, there are bikes available. There are direct brands like the aforementioned in this thread Intense that has stuff in stock. It's a matter of how much, what type and what build, etc.

 

Sometimes an unnatural grip shape, load or angle will do it. It's controversial but I'd recommend a quality carbon bar in a comfortable rise and sweep. Then known ergo type grips, e.g. Ergon. Sliding the saddle forward or shorter stem to bring the bars back may help reduce load on the wrists. I'd also check front suspension settings to ensure tyre pressure is good and front susp not too firm on spring rate or harsh on compression damping. And lastly, ride different terrain and surfaces and see if it's the same, you might be able to eliminate a thing or two. Good luck.